Wellness and Sustainability Shine at This Historic Eco-Resort in the Austrian Alps

Sustainability and harmony with nature are the core values of Stanglwirt, which was immediately apparent upon setting foot inside. A fresh scent of wood greeted me in a massive lobby that towered several floors above, where all perceivable surfaces – floors, walls, ceilings, check-in desks, the bar, and even the very frames of the elevators themselves – were dominated by a pervasive timber aesthetic, the wood for which, I learned. was all harvested from surrounding forests. As I marveled at this interior, I couldn’t help but imagine how cozy it must be in the winter months, picturing the currently silent fire pits roaring against the frosty backdrop of drifting white snow through the windows.

My daydreaming was cut short by the sensation of a key card entering my hand, and I began the journey to my room on the opposite end of the complex. I don’t use the word “journey” lightly – with its four centuries of additions, Stanglwirt seemed to have endless corridors, each containing charming discoveries that made me all too happy to get lost exploring them. Over the next several days I regularly fought difficult temptations to not follow beckoning side paths, though I often gave in. On such occasions, I encountered a bar, a library, a cigar room, a gift store, outdoor gear shops, a horse-riding rink, an arcade, a children’s nursery, swimming pools, a giant open-air patio, an enormous spa area, two restaurants, and a well-equipped gymnasium lined with images of occasional guest Arnold Schwarzenegger. There were also fitness classrooms offering yoga, pilates, and much more.

Exploring the amenities at Der Stanglwiort

Photo: John Sizemore

I could only give the spa a precursory glance on this initial trek with belongings in tow, so I chucked my stuff in my room and decided to go check it out. Taking a back entrance directly underneath me, I walked a long carpeted hallway with soothing lounge music and a pleasurable citrus aroma, both increasing in intensity as I followed them towards the gentle sound of trickling water.

On arrival, the full breadth of the spa became evident, which was much more extensive than I had originally imagined. A door to my right revealed a water park hidden in plain sight, where playful screams careened down thrilling slides and culminated in rousing final splashes. To my left, a breezy veranda with dormant fireplaces adjoined two swimming pools inset within an expansive outdoor area. Relaxed guests enjoyed the Alpine sunshine in lazy chairs scattered throughout the grass, with cocktails in hand supplied by a nearby bar.

It seemed impossible to fathom that all this was in one resort, so I took this left exit outside to build a quick mental map. The buildings I had been exploring, tall stone structures half-sunken into the earth, resembled something straight out of The Shire from Lord Of The Rings, with grassy rooftops affixed to the sizable on-site farm that produced ingredients for Stanglwirt’s restaurants. These literal lofty pastures, visible from my room, often came with the hilarious sight of sheep engaging in some carefree grazing that provided an amusing start to each morning. Despite having never been to the Alps before, I had nearly completely forgotten about the mountains until I saw the gorgeous Wilder Kaiser range towering above the complex as if to remind me of the majestic peaks that encircled me.

Stanglwirt has earned global accolades for its green initiatives

Photo: John Sizemore

Re-entering the building, I went through a new entrance straight ahead and realized the spa improbably just kept going. This door led to a spacious, earthy room with indoor waterfalls, staircases leading to hidden nooks with more spectacular views of Wilder Kaiser, and various rocky swimming pools of numerous sizes, all connected by a stone path intermixed with a trickling stream. Water was visible almost everywhere while walking through the spa area, which flowed freely from Stanglwirt’s Kaiserwasser reservoir and functioned as a vital piece of the resort’s sustainability-focused operations. In addition to being aesthetically pleasing, employed extensively within the spa, and drinkable from the many stations throughout the property, the spring was also utilized in the on-site biomass power plant that fueled Stanglwirt’s heating, cooling, and electrical systems. These green initiatives extend far beyond the hotel – Stanglwirt also assists in global eco-friendly endeavors to construct wells in underserved regions.

A narrow passage carved into an earthen wall here led to intimate sauna quarters, steam rooms, and a shower area with a cold plunge in the corner. I finally came across the actual front entrance nearby, where a staircase flanked by walls of bright green moss led to the massage area where plentiful options for bodywork awaited, including ayurveda, detox therapy, and acupressure.

Incredibly, this still wasn’t the end of the spa – a door I had previously missed on this first walk led to a second, entirely separate, clothing-optional area containing different dry saunas, steam rooms, and a much larger chilly plunge outside with a beautiful view of the mountains. As a big believer in hot-cold therapy, I decided I’d done enough investigating for the day, changed my clothes, and commenced my first of many visits to the hottest of these sauna rooms, aptly named the Kaiser. Clocking in at roughly 200 degrees Fahrenheit, and with windows providing a view of the icy pool whose shimmering surface became more alluring the longer I spent in the heat, I flipped a sand timer next to the door, turned off my eyes, turned on my breath, and reanimated a sweaty 15 minutes later under the frigid waters outside, shaking off the last of my jet lag.

Stanglwirt packed few punches – literally

The author throwing a few punches. Photo courtesy John Sizemore

Many new experiences marked the rest of my time at Stanglwirt. My stops at the sauna occasionally coincided with a guided session where a worker clutching fragrant oils, a large fan, and a bucket of water would set themselves up in the center of the room by the scorching pile of rocks radiating the room’s high temperatures. The oil first filled the space with a sweet odor, followed by wet scoops on the sizzling stones, which vaporized instantly on contact. These splashes had the immediate effect of dramatically increasing the heat in the room, which then wafted towards my wincing face via the application of the fan. While fairly intense, I found these ordeals quite relaxing, especially when balanced with the cold plunge.

Stanglwirt has trained several champion boxers – most famously the Klitschko brothers – and one of my days involved stepping in the ring for an introductory class with resident coach and personal trainer Björn Schulz. After taping my hands and putting on some gloves, we did a few aerobic warmups and practiced punching drills. Along with the engaging workout, I enjoyed learning all the implications on my power, speed, and defense resulting from subtle differences in stance, distance, and momentum. As someone who has always favored more technical exercise, despite the apparent simplicity of boxing, I found witnessing the depth of the sport through this first glimpse fascinating.

The boxing demanded a follow-up massage, so I scheduled an appointment for “rolfing.” I had never heard of this before, and as an experienced yoga teacher familiar with bodywork disciplines, I was excited to try it out. Sascha Bauer, the local expert, guided me through the process. Akin to a very intense massage focusing on the body’s connective tissues, or fascia, the procedure had an immediate effect on my posture and was as informative as it was invigorating. I followed my appointment with some time in the massage lounge, an alluring space with chill ambient music and soft lights illuminating stone walls. These were inset with blue partitions filled with lively, colorful fish, where the combination of post-massage bliss, tea, and comfy vibes led to a restful nap rather than the book I intended to read.

On-site dining at Stanglwirt

The famed Weiner schnitzel. Photo: John Sizemore

Spending time in such comfortable surroundings often whetted my appetite. Having seen the emphasis on freshness, I was eager to try Stanglwirt’s restaurants, whose cuisine covered traditional Austrian dishes and fare from elsewhere in Europe. At Gastof Stangl, where inviting wooden dining rooms evoked a rustic charm with its wooden interior and windows offering the sight of munching cows in farm stalls, I enjoyed tasty white asparagus, a local delicacy popular during the spring months. Stangl Alm, existing about as long as the resort itself and where weathered walls held dozens of artifacts befitting its age, I tried an Austrian classic – Weiner schnitzel – followed with Kaiserschmarrn, a delectable dessert closely resembling a sweet pancake. The mornings didn’t disappoint either. Breakfasts were a tantalizing buffet in yet another new part of the building, where my stomach was delighted to find an appetizing smorgasbord of fresh fruits, succulent sausages, and refreshing juices awaiting me.

As a cheese lover, I was also thrilled that meals typically came with a fine selection of Alpine fromage. I was hardly shocked to eventually discover on a tour that, along with everything else, Stanglwirt also contained a cheesemaking area, complete with a storage cellar embedded in the side of a nearby mountain whose damp climate was ideal for cultivating the delicious dairy.

There’s not a bad seat anywhere on the property. Photo: John Sizemore

One could be easily forgiven for getting swept up in Stanglwirt’s many delights, but considering its location at the doorstep of the Alps, plenty of adventures also await just beyond. Any season features things to do – the property organizes excursions to immerse visitors within its wealth of nearby hiking, fishing, biking, and skiing in the winter months, with shops selling accessories assisting each of the above activities. The surrounding village of Kitzbuhel also exudes small-town Alpine appeal, with its adorable streets lined with cute restaurants and stores begging to be visited.

I was at Stanglwirt for close to a week. As someone who isn’t particularly inclined towards luxury travel and tends to shy away from it, I was not only amazed at the extent to which the resort was able to effortlessly combine a luxurious feel with sustainability in such a vast space, but that it was also able to do so in a way that felt wholly authentic, heartfelt, and inspiring. I was surprised at how often I was pulled towards exploration simply out of the wonder of what I might uncover next, and even though I’m sure there are things I still missed, I’m just as happy to leave a new adventure for the next stay. If you ever find yourself in the magic of the Austrian Alps and want an environment befitting their beauty and splendor, look no further than Stanglwirt.