Where to Play, Eat, and Stay in Chattanooga, Tennessee's 'Scenic City'

Two hours from both Atlanta and Nashville, Chattanooga sits in a sweet spot where the mountains meet the river. You can hike to a creek or waterfall in the morning and spend your evenings eating at chef’s tables with the chefs themselves — all without the traffic jams, inflated prices, and pretension of more commonly visited cities.

Things to do in Chattanooga

Explore the Northshore

Chattanooga’s Northshore neighborhood deserves half a day of wandering. Before my trip, I had some concerns about how accessible and queer-friendly the city would be due to Tennessee’s transphobic laws, including a gender-neutral bathroom ban. When I popped into Northshore’s The Book & Cover, which recently took the number two spot on Southern Living’s list of the “Friendliest Places in the South,” I relished the chance to visit an independent bookstore that serves as a safe haven and third space for LGBTQIA+ travelers like myself. For residents and tourists alike, The Book & Cover is a thoughtfully designed space with a wheelchair ramp and gender-inclusive bathrooms where you can order a specialty latte and cozy up with a novel in one of the artfully decorated nooks.

Afterward, I drove to Frazier Avenue — a walkable distance from The Book & Cover but also a convenient four-minute drive — to browse Collective Clothing for vintage and thrift finds. The store is stocked with affordable clothing for all budgets and sizes. As a fat, disabled person, I was delighted to find an embroidered denim shirt for $35, an item that would cost double the price in New York City.

Down the road, I was captivated by Verre Noire, a plant and variety store that stocks unique home goods and houseplants. The entrances are wide and expansive, featuring greenery in a gothic, macabre setting.

Northshore: Frazier Ave & Beyond, Chattanooga, TN 37405

Climb the Incline Railway

Chattanooga’s Incline Railway climbs the side of Lookout Mountain at 72.7 degrees, making it the world’s steepest funicular. The ride is short, and the engineering impressive, with two lookout points at the top.

Chattanooga Tourism Marketing Director Sean Phipps informed me that the Incline Railway used to be the most convenient form of transportation for those living on Lookout Mountain. “People still take the Incline Railway as a commuter option,” he explained, “and it runs until 5 PM.” For those who prefer public transportation, like myself, the Incline Railway provides a charming and functional mode of transit.

Tip: For wheelchair users or anyone squeamish about heights, sit toward the back of the car (closer to where you enter) as there’s space to store walkers and wheelchairs there.

Incline Railway: 3917 St Elmo Ave, Chattanooga, TN 37409

Visit the Bessie Smith Cultural Center

To learn more about local history, I stopped by the Bessie Smith Cultural Center, named after the iconic Chattanooga-born Jazz Age blues singer. The cultural center not only preserves the legacy of the“Empress of Blues” but also tells the story of Black history in Chattanooga.

Founded in 1982 by local leaders, the collection provides insight into the contributions and culture that shaped Chattanooga’s development. Vice President of Operations, Elijah Cameron, led a tour and explained the city’s history as a haven for African Americans in the South, where sundown towns were common and unsafe to wander at night.

“Other areas of Tennessee were not safe, but Chattanooga welcomed us with open arms,” he stated, pointing to the center’s recreation of Black entrepreneurship — 9th street — circa the 1960s, before the city displaced the residents. As a person of color, I felt better knowing Chattanooga’s history as a temporary sanctuary.

The city also played a pivotal role in the Civil Rights movement when a group of Howard High School students led peaceful sit-ins at segregated businesses. In response, the city’s police invented the fire hose technique of dispersing a crowd. As a curious traveler, I felt grateful that Chattanoogans dedicate themselves to sharing their entire history with me.

Bessie Smith Cultural Center: 200 E M L King Blvd, Chattanooga, TN 37403

Take a tour of Ruby Falls

Ruby Falls drops 145 feet underground and is accessible only through guided tours. It requires comfortable paved walking for about two miles round-trip with some tight cave squeezes, so it’s not fully accessible but is doable if you can handle the distance and don’t mind confined spaces.

As we descended an elevator shaft a couple of hundred feet underground, I was skeptical. How fun could trudging in the dark through damp caves be? I was happy to be proven wrong. Our tour guide’s commitment to entertaining us while providing educational tidbits and trivia about geological formations and the history of the underground falls was impressive. I also found the walk to be slow-paced enough for people who use canes or other assistive walking devices and was surprised to see benches built into the path for visitors to rest.

Included with the price of admission is the viewpoint, which is wheelchair-accessible through an elevator and ramps. The Ruby Falls lookout also has a colorblind viewer so everyone can experience the panoramic views.

Ruby Falls: 1720 S. Scenic Highway Chattanooga, TN 37409

Stroll through Rock City Gardens

Rock City Gardens sprawls across many acres as a former residence. The whimsical gardens feature massive rock formations, a 140-foot waterfall, and a point where you can supposedly view seven states. There are many trails within the complex, including an ADA trail that accommodates wheelchairs and scooters.

A must-visit is the Fairytale Caverns trail, which is enclosed and decorated with technicolor-painted handmade wooden figurines and highlights various fairytales through dioramas. I felt like a child again, as I oohed and aahed my way through Jack and the Beanstalk and Cinderella. The majority of the park, with the exception of Fat Man’s Squeeze, is easily strollable and perfect for families, with plenty of spaces to sit and rest.

Rock City Gardens: 1400 Patten Rd, Lookout Mountain, GA 30750

Check out the Sculpture Fields at Montague Park

For more art, the Sculpture Fields at Montague Park is a 33-acre public-access park (free!) filled with large-scale sculptures by renowned artist John Henry. It also features a rotating and permanent collection of Henry’s colleagues and friends, including New York sculptor Mark di Suvero, among other prolific names.

A comparable sculpture park in upstate New York charges admission and doesn’t allow animals. Here, you can bring your dog, have a picnic, and explore the collections at no cost. Even better, while most sculpture gardens forbid visitors from touching the art, the Sculpture Fields encourage play and touching. Visitors can sit on Bench No. 9, which is described as “practical art,” and admire the work while engaging with it.

Sculpture Fields at Montague Park: 1800 Polk St, Chattanooga, TN 37408

Spend an afternoon at the Tennessee Aquarium

The Tennessee Aquarium sits on the banks of the Tennessee River and showcases how central nature is to Chattanooga. The conservation focus is prominent through a genuine commitment to protecting freshwater and marine ecosystems. Director Thom gave us a behind-the-scenes tour that revealed the serious science and conservation efforts happening there.

Before moving into the exhibits, the building orients visitors toward the river to show how their visit contributes to conservation. I met the aquarium’s resident turtle expert who allowed my group to walk through the hatchery, explaining the breeding programs for endangered species.

The aquarium is easily accessible via wheelchair with elevators, a main pathway accommodating wheelchairs, and thoughtful architecture. The aquarium’s interactive exhibits — including interactive educational games and touch tanks — make difficult topics accessible for all, including children, to understand.

Tennessee Aquarium: 1 Broad St, Chattanooga, TN 37402

Where to eat and drink in Chattanooga

2nd American Restaurant

On my first evening in Chattanooga, I enjoyed a dinner at Chef Daniel Lindley’s 2nd American Restaurant, a convivial venue set in a former warehouse, retaining its brick structure and original beams but adding a splash of drama with a central sculpture by a local artist. The entire dining room is a sight to behold, accented with epic fine art by local Chattanooga artists.

Our server explained that Chef Lindley wanted to create a warm, welcoming atmosphere inspired by his Sunday childhood dinners. Every entree includes a communal bowl of mashed potatoes, and everyone shares side dishes in the same way: family style. I’d recommend coming here with a large group so you can try everything. The highlights were the tomato pie, which reminded me of a Southern approximation of Chicago deep-dish pizza, but featuring locally grown heirloom tomatoes sourced from Amish farmlands nearby. If you can, save room for dessert — I left stuffed and took home my fried peach pie with miso caramel.

2nd American Restaurant: 1601 Cowart St, Chattanooga, TN 37408

Main Street Meats

At lunch another day, I ate at Main Street Meats, where the chef-restaurateur, Eric Niel, walked me through his menu, recommending his pork rinds as a “sleeper hit.” He also explained the differences in his other restaurant concepts (both local): the James Beard favorite Easy Bistro and his newest venture, Little Coyote. Chef Niel was born and raised in Louisiana but came to Chattanooga after culinary school and settled down in the city with his wife.

“I noticed a lack of fine dining options and lack of farm-to-table,” he confessed, “so I opened Easy Bistro to fill the gap, with Main Street Meats being my second, more casual concept.”

The restaurant doubles as a butcher shop, sourcing from local farms around the Tennessee Valley. Despite the high quality of the meat, I was more surprised by how tasty the sides were. Vegans and vegetarians will be happy here — I inhaled the warm potato salad, happily munched on the broccolini, and devoured my side of fresh melons.

Main Street Meats: 217 E Main St, Chattanooga, TN 37408

1885 Grill

Another lunch option is 1885 Grill in the historic St. Elmo neighborhood. For the last decade or so, the restaurant has racked up accolades for having the best wings in Chattanooga — literally. There’s a counter piled with their repeated victories, and I can confirm that the restaurant serves excellent wings, without the markup or pretension. I recommend sharing the wings — they don’t need a side sauce though they do have blue cheese and ranch dressing — and getting a cup of gumbo for lunch.

1885 Grill: 3914 St Elmo Ave, Chattanooga, TN 37409

Clumpies

For artisanal, homegrown ice cream, Clumpies has three locations in Chattanooga. The scoops are gigantic, and the flavors span from conventional (vanilla, chocolate, etc.) to creative (firecracker, salty malty pretzel, etc.). Expect others when you go; the chain is swamped for good reason — it’s a tasty way to cool off during the hot summers.

Clumpies: Various

Where to stay in Chattanooga:
The Edwin Hotel

I checked in at The Edwin Hotel, part of the Marriott Autograph Collection. The hotel sits at the southern end of the historic Walnut Street Bridge, a pedestrian walkway that spans downtown Chattanooga and connects it to the bohemian North Shore neighborhood. This upscale five-story boutique hotel highlights local art by local Chattanooga artists, which you can purchase or inquire about through the QR codes next to each work.

One of the staff members, Alden, was helpful in running over Chattanooga’s must-sees with me, and he upgraded me to a corner room overlooking downtown. My room featured a king-size bed, floor-to-ceiling windows that overlooked the pedestrian bridge, and a Victorian fainting couch. When I wasn’t in my room, I imbibed at the rooftop Whiskey Thief bar, which is award-winning not only for its cocktails but also for the views. The Edwin also has a coffee shop, Provisions, in the lobby and a full-service restaurant and bar called Whitebird. If you ask, they can provide complimentary bicycles for exploring the city. Note: The pedestrian bridge will be under construction until 2026.

If you’re looking for a quirkier accommodation, The Hotel Chalet offers suites in converted authentic Pullman train cars. For the full Chattanooga Choo Choo experience, you can sleep on the former station’s railroad.

The Edwin Hotel: 102 Walnut St, Chattanooga, TN 37403

Getting to and around Chattanooga

The easiest way for me to get to Chattanooga from New York City was by flying. Delta has two direct flights from LaGuardia Airport (LGA) a day, which makes travel relatively pain-free. The airport has a large, wheelchair-accessible terminal with plenty of space to eat and take breaks.

I’d recommend renting a car while in Chattanooga, as it’s the easiest mode of transportation with the highways, and parking is abundant and affordable. However, rideshares are available, and the local transit authority, CARTA, provides public transportation for the city through fixed bus routes and a free all-electric shuttle system between downtown Chattanooga and the Northshore neighborhood. Otherwise, CARTA fees vary from $0.75 for senior citizens, students, and people with disabilities up to $2 for CARTA GO (an on-demand bus service) for one-way rides. Passes, routes, and rates are available on the CARTA website, which also states accessibility and paratransit options.

The most walkable neighborhoods are St. Elmo, downtown Chattanooga, and the Chattanooga Choo Choo district — however, I still recommend renting a car for the best ease of access to Chattanooga’s resources.