Where to Play, Eat, and Stay on the North Shore of O‘ahu, Hawai‘i

The North Shore’s main artery is the Kamehameha Highway. It stretches between the town of Haleʻiwa — with its locally owned shops, restaurants, and galleries — to Waimea Valley and beyond to the former sugar mill town of Kahuku. Waimea Valley is home to the largest heiau (Hawaiian temple) on the island, Puʻu O Mahuka, and the namesake bay where the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational takes place every year.

Along the way, you’ll pass working farms, rustic farmers markets, and local-favorite food trucks and roadside stands selling poke bowls, fruit smoothies, and the best fried shrimp you’ll ever eat — no reservations required (or shoes, for that matter).

Things to do on the North Shore of O‘ahu

Head to the beach

You’ll find some of the most sought-after beaches in Hawaiʻi along Oʻahu North Shore — gorgeous stretches of golden sand where it’s easy to spend an entire day. In the winter, powerful waves might attract surfers to ʻEhukai Beach Park (home of the Banzai Pipeline) and Sunset (a top place to catch the sunset alongside family-friendly Haleʻiwa Beach Park). The waters are more tranquil in the summer (although even experienced swimmers are advised to exercise caution). The crystal-clear tide pool at Shark’s Cove at Pūpūkea Beach Park is perfect for snorkeling, much like Kuilima Cove 15 miles up the coast, which is bursting with marine life.

Shop local in Haleʻiwa

From humble beginnings as a sugarcane plantation village to a renowned surf spot, Haleʻiwa is a laid-back little town that attracts a global crowd every winter with prestigious competitions like the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. One way to learn about its historic sites, like Liliʻuokalani Church, is on a docent-led walking tour. Another is to spend an afternoon strolling its main street, popping into local businesses including Polu Gallery and Jack Johnson’s Kokua General Store. Raging Isle Surf & Skate inside the North Shore Marketplace is worth a look, too, much like surf-meets-vintage shop Number 808. And no visit to Haleʻiwa is complete without stopping by North Shore institution Matsumoto Shave Ice for a snow cone drizzled in tropical flavor combos like the Hawaiian (blue pineapple, coconut, and banana) topped with condensed milk.

Swim with sharks

Swimming with sharks is a thrilling way to spend a morning on the North Shore, and one of the best outfitters to go with is One Ocean Diving. Its educational two-hour trips are led by a small team of marine biologists, plus an underwater photographer who gives everyone ample opportunities to dive down for semi-close-up encounters with several shark species, including Galapagos, sandbar, and black tips, depending on the season. Tours aren’t just educational (you’ll learn about the sharks’ ecological role as a top predator, their significance in ancient Hawaiian lore, and sad trends in their decline) but also support marine conservation with a portion of proceeds helping fund beach clean-ups and outreach programs.

One Ocean Diving: 66-105 Beach Rd, Haleiwa, HI 96712

Explore Waimea Valley

A site of spiritual and cultural significance for centuries, Waimea Valley is preserved as a living museum and represents one of Oʻahu’s last remaining ahupuaʻa — a traditional Hawaiian land division that stretches between the mountains and the sea. The trail to its eponymous waterfall features a botanical garden, traditional dwellings, and artisan demonstrations like kapa-making (bark cloth). Across the road, Waimea Bay is where the first Westerners came ashore on Oʻahu in 1779 and later where pioneering surfers cemented its reputation as the birthplace of big wave surfing in the ‘50s. Up the hill, the state historic site Puʻu o Mahuka offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient Hawaiian society. Overlooking the valley the site is also crisscrossed with hiking trails.

Waimea Valley: Waimea Valley Rd, Haleiwa, HI 96712

Plant a tree on horseback

Hawaiian cowboys (paniolo) have been wrangling cattle on Hawaiʻi since the early 19th century — including at Gunstock, a working and still family-owned ranch in Kahuku. Backdropped by the Koʻolau Range, the ranch’s 900 acres are a pretty place to ride, but visitors can give back to the land here, too, by planting a native Hawaiian tree in the growing Legacy Forest. After a horseback ride through the countryside and a picnic lunch, you’ll get to dedicate a tree during a personal ceremony and help support Gunstock’s partnership with the Hawaiian Legacy Reforestation Initiative.

Gunstock Ranch: 56-250 Kamehameha Hwy, Kahuku, HI 96731

Where to eat and drink on the North Shore of O‘ahu

Farm to Barn Café & Juicery

Cold-pressed juices, burritos, and vegan bowls grace the menu at this must-stop health food cafe in Haleʻiwa. Loved by locals and in-the-know visitors, it’s a popular spot that’s worth the wait of the occasional lines. Order at the counter and enjoy your meal at one of the picnic tables on the lawn. Breakfast highlights include the veggie-packed farm-powered bowl, while the Big Island grass-fed Banzai Burger is perfect for a post-surf or shark-swim refuel.

Farm to Barn Café & Juicery: 66-320 Kamehameha Hwy, Haleiwa, HI 96712

Raised by Waves

This entirely plant-based and vegan cafe inside the Kahuku Sugar Mill complex has you covered from simple but good-for-you breakfast eats (think avo toast and sunrise waffles topped with strawberries) to post-surf afternoon snacks like the spicy beet poke bowl and pounders panini. There’s also a great lineup of smoothies, refreshers (try the Shroom Latte), immunity-boosting Seamoss Shots, and coffee drinks made with fresh local grinds.

Raised by Waves: Sugar Mill 56, 565 Kamehameha Hwy Unit #B9, Kahuku, HI 96731

Tanaka Kahuku Shrimp

Spicy garlic shrimp bring people (sometimes by the tour bus) to this no-frills roadside restaurant in Kahuku. For around $18, you’ll get six shrimp on a generous pile of rice garnished with a slice of sweet local pineapple. Order from the window, then grab a seat at one of the covered picnic tables. Pro-tip: don’t skip the extra sauce for only a couple of dollars more. And if you’re not into shrimp, the chicken katsu has a perfectly crisp, golden exterior with tender, juicy meat inside.

Tanaka Kahuku Shrimp: 56-931 Kamehameha Hwy, Kahuku, HI 96731

Kuilima Farm Stand

The North Shore is dotted with farms growing everything from breadfruit and açai to leafy greens and lilikoʻi (passion fruit). Many offer behind-the-scenes tours where you can learn about the area’s agricultural history, and several have stands along Kamehameha Highway, including Kuilima (which means “holding hands with the land”). Part of a 468-acre farm-to-resort that includes 34 community garden plots and that’s located mauka (towards the mountains) of Turtle Bay, it sells cut and bagged seasonal fruits and veggies, plus honey harvested from on-site beehives.

Kuilima Farm Stand: 57-146 Kamehameha Hwy, Kahuku, HI 96731

Where to stay on the North Shore of O‘ahu

Courtyard by Marriott Oahu North Shore

Having successfully preserved its rural charm by limiting large-scale development, there are just two hotels on this side of Oʻahu, one of which is the Courtyard by Marriott Oahu North Shore. Steps from ʻŌnini Beach in the little-known town of Lāʻie on the windward coast, its newly renovated guestrooms feature tasteful tropical touches and are configured with either two queen beds or a king (although a handful have bunks, and suites come equipped with full kitchens).

Rent bikes or SUPs, snorkel sets, and surfboards for a day at the beach (accessed via a private path), relax in a daybed beside the resort-style pool or take advantage of lawn games and activities like corn hole and pickleball. Look for Kekela “Aunty Kela” Miller who leads cultural classes — including lei making, hula dancing, and ukelele — in the also newly renovated lobby. Counter-service spot The Bistro is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but no alcohol is sold at the hotel (so, no poolside Mai Tais) although you can BYO and enjoy in the privacy of your room. Zero resort fees is another big plus, but parking will cost an additional $20 a night.

The Marriott’s convenient location a short walk from the Polynesian Cultural Center is a draw for anyone keen to catch one of the nightly Aliʻi Lūʻau & Hā Shows, shop the marketplace, or explore its island villages. Nearby restaurants include burger joint Seven Brothers and Kahuku Beer Garden & Bottle Shop inside the Kahuku Sugar Mill, which is dotted with food trucks and farm-to-table cafes. For sunset cocktails, head to the lobby bar, Off the Lip, at The Ritz-Carlton Oʻahu, Turtle Bay. Located on Oʻahu’s northernmost point, the only other hotel on the North Shore is a much spendier stay (nightly rates from $1,000), but the setting and views are unreal.

Courtyard by Marriott Oahu North Shore: 55-400 Kamehameha Hwy, Laie, HI 96762

How to get to on the North Shore of O‘ahu

Rideshares are plentiful around Honolulu, but don’t expect the same kind of coverage in the country. Oʻahu’s public transport system, The Bus, serves the island (Route 52 and Route 55 both run from Ala Moana Center to Haleʻiwa), but there’s only one convenient way to get around here: by car.

Pick one up in Honolulu (Voyage Rental Cars has a handy kiosk inside the Waikīkī Shopping Plaza) or from the Consolidated Rent-a-Car facility at the airport. Locally owned outfit Baba Rentals has a solid reputation with great prices, or for an emissions-free cruise to the North Shore consider EV specialists WeedriveTesla.

Depending on traffic, it can take over an hour to reach Haleʻiwa from Honolulu and another 35-40 minutes from there to the town of Lāʻie.