Trastevere, located just south of Vatican City in central Rome, is the kind of neighborhood that embodies all of the charming little things you expect to find in Italy. Here, cobblestone streets play host to cheese and prosciutto shops where mammas shop for goods to prepare lunch while locals and expats laugh, argue, and drink pinot grigio in streetside cafes and restaurants. This is where you can still find Rome’s old social scene, clinging to its bohemian roots no matter how hip and modern the greater city becomes.
Trastevere translates literally to “across the river,” signifying where you have to go to avoid the crowds that flood Rome’s center. Ask a passing local and they’ll tell you that this place is the perfect balance of Italian tradition and cosmopolitan vibes. The Hollywood of Rome, as locals call it, is also a heck of a place to grub down. Here’s how to eat your way through the neighborhood.