As I drove over Tioga Pass on a sunny afternoon, a dark silhouette appeared in the distance. As I got closer, a black bear crossed the two-lane highway and climbed the mountain slope before disappearing into the dense woods. I was on my way out after two days in Yosemite in the first few days of fall.
The trip started on the opposite side of the park, in Fish Camp, a mountain hamlet with no stoplights, no chain hotels, and a scattering of lodges along Highway 41. Most nights there, the loudest sound is wind moving through the trees. The town sits on the main route into the park for visitors from Fresno and Southern California. It’s surrounded by Sierra National Forest and minutes from the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias at the park’s southern point.
My base for exploring one of America’s most visited national parks was Waybound Yosemite, a cabin resort that puts you close to the park’s waterfalls and trailheads, without making you rough it once the day’s hiking is done.




