Nothing captures Americana quite like a summer rodeo, a waterpark, or a skeet-shooting range. As a born-and-raised rural American now living abroad, I haven’t done any of these activities in years. But after four days and three nights at Westgate River Ranch Resort & Rodeo in Florida, I realized this was the Yellowstone-lite, cowgirl-cosplay summer vacation I needed.
Photo: Gwyneth Talley
Glamping, Rodeos, and Full-On Cowboy Core: Inside Florida’s Only Dude Ranch
River Ranch is an unincorporated community in Polk County. While not exactly a replica of Montana’s scenery, it has beautiful meadows and expansive pastures dotted with wetlands. It’s the perfect setting for Florida’s only dude ranch. Being only an hour and a half from Orlando, though, I had my doubts about whether the land of Disney World and Palm Beach could deliver a true dude ranch experience, complete with a rodeo every Saturday. After experiencing it for myself, I’m pleased to report that Westgate River Ranch Resort is the perfect place for urban families, international visitors, and grown-up horse girls like me to get a taste of ranch life.
Settling in at Westgate River Ranch Resort
Photos: Gwyneth Talley
Westgate’s entrance is on the edge of the Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park, which has lush greenery, wetlands, and wildlife. The property has multiple accommodation options: RV parking, traditional tent areas, lodge rooms, cabins and cottages for rent, and then the glamping choices — saddle club rail cars, covered wagons, and a teepee village.
As an anthropologist, it gave me pause to stay in a teepee in a state known for the Trail of Tears without much acknowledgment of the Seminole and other Indigenous groups that used to inhabit the area (most of whom lived in chickees, large palm-covered wooden structures, rather than teepees). My teepee’s comfort was undeniable, however.
While it might look like glamping on the outside, the interiors of the wagons and teepees are full-on luxury suites. Each unit has A/C, a sitting area, a little kitchenette, and a large bathroom. The covered wagons are spacious enough to fit a family of six, while the teepees are a better size for couples or smaller families, with a king-sized bed and a pull-out couch. Each wagon and teepee comes with a deck, rocking chairs, an umbrella, an outdoor grill, a cooler, and a golf cart for getting around the ranch.
On Friday — my first night at the resort — we gathered at the River Ranch Cattle Company Chophouse and Bar, one of several dining venues on the property. This Western-themed eatery was located at the main reception building and bills itself as a “ranch-chic” steakhouse. The drinks were strong, and the food portions were huge. A wedge salad smothered in toppings, followed by as much New York strip steak as I could manage, left me patting my stomach and wondering if I’d ever be able to eat again. After a hearty meal, we returned to our lodgings and congregated around the nightly campfire at the covered wagons for s’mores. I turned in for a luxurious sleep before a jam-packed day of activities.
A full day on the ranch
Photos: Gwyneth Talley
After sampling an omelet bar and the ranch’s famous Cowboy Donuts — catered onsite in the “chickee” lodge in the teepee village — I made my way to the petting farm and stables in anticipation of the trail ride we’d be doing. As little kids were getting pony rides, I scratched the chins of some cute calves, patted some very pregnant donkeys, and attempted to snap pictures of an energetic emu.
We mounted our steeds, and our guide led us out of the paddock into a nearby pasture. The steady rhythm of the horse moving was the most meditative hour spent enjoying the outdoors and reconnecting with nature. With both of my hands on the reins, a horse named Mango gently walked me across the meadow and into the saddle graveyard, where retiring cowboys hang up their saddles on the Spanish moss trees in hopes of good luck. For beginners or people with a fear of horses, this ride will instill confidence.
After finishing the ride, it was steaming up outside, and it was time to cool off in Westgate’s newly opened River Country Water Park. We sat in one of the cabanas, ordered drinks and snacks, and hurried off for a dip. With three slides of varying degrees of exhilaration, I might have sent an unknowing companion on the scariest waterslide, known as The Drop. Each slide had a different vibe: one featured a tunnel with rave lights, another was open with twists and turns, and then there was The Drop, which shot your body down at a thrilling angle. I couldn’t remember the last time I was squealing and giggling as my inner child zoomed down the slides again and again.
Photos: Gwyneth Talley
Before I knew it, it was time to towel off and see the “running of the horses” where all the working horses were let out to pasture for the evening. While not exactly the cattle drive of San Antonio, it was fun to see the horses kick up their heels and get to the lush pasture after a hot day’s work.
Next, I grabbed some barbecue at Smokehouse on the River and headed over for a line dancing lesson at the River Ranch Saloon. We boot-scoot-and-boogied, learning six new line dances and cooling off with a cocktail in a boot. The night was still young as we made our way to S’mores and Pours, where we made s’mores, enriched our palates with a bourbon tasting, and learned about branding on the ranch (which now focuses on wood branding for decoration).
Rodeo nights and river days
Saturday morning came with a breakfast of avocado toast sliders and waffles to get us energized for a morning of skeet shooting. (For those under 18, there are options for airgun and archery ranges.) Cody, our instructor, gave us the safety rundown, and we stepped onto the range. Drawing our shotguns tight to our shoulders, I yelled “pull,” firing at clay pigeons. Whether working with experienced or brand-new skeet shooters, the instructors tried hard to make sure everyone hit at least one clay pigeon and celebrated safely (handing the shotgun over to the instructors before jumping up and down).
Next, we needed to get out of the sun and humidity, so we hopped back into the Chophouse for a sandwich and cool-down, before jumping on the boat in the marina for a tour down the Kissimmee River, where we motored through the locks and enjoyed spotting some Everglades wildlife like alligators, ospreys, wood storks, and anhingas (a type of waterbird).
Photos: Gwyneth Talley
Soon after, it was time to get ready for the Saturday night rodeo. As a country-raised kid, I was skeptical that this ranch could pull off an authentic rodeo every weekend. But it was an edge-of-your-seat affair, full of bronco busting, bull riding, and fun for the whole family — even in torrential rain.
Florida in June is always questionable in terms of rain (so bring a rain poncho or jacket), but the rodeo runs rain or shine as long as there’s no lightning on the horizon. Guests, campers, RVers, and locals line up to find their seats in the 1,200-seat rodeo arena. Local cowboys have the little kids line up to learn lasso tricks and rope spinning while waiting for the show to start.
The evening I was there, the rodeo started with a star-spangled flag introduction, followed by bull riding and then intermission acts including trick riding, bullwhip stunts, and mounted shooting. The emcee explained how the local cowpunchers (cowboys) and bull riders score points as they clung as hard as they could for their eight-second ride to glory.
After two hours of mud, sweat, and horsehair, we made our way to the front of the saloon next to the arena where the locals put on a street party complete with mechanical bull riding, line dancing, socializing, and shopping. Truly, the ranch resort has a little something for everyone — especially those who love a little bit of camp, campy fun, and nature. 