This Spanish City Rivals Barcelona for Food and Culture, Without the Crowds

There are enough sites to fill a day or two in this walkable city which has a history as diverse as the tapas scene. First came the Romans, in the 1st century BC. Named after the first Roman Emperor, they established the city of Caesaraugustus and set about constructing facilities for entertainment and trade which now form the benchmark of tourism. The Moors followed, renaming the city as Saraqusta and erecting buildings in the Mudéjar style, including Aljafería Palace which is open to tours. Zaragoza’s other appeal lies in its astounding churches and art museums. Francisco Goya hails from the nearby town of Fuendetodos although Zaragoza claims him as one of their own and has a museum dedicated to his work and that of his mentees.

Zaragoza’s treasures and ruins

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The  is dominated by the Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar, a Baroque masterpiece presiding over its namesake square on the banks of the River Ebro. Legend says that Mary appeared to Saint James at this location and instructed the construction of a church in her honor. The atmosphere inside and in the plaza is particularly magical at night and the views from the Stone Bridge (Puente de Piedra) are splendid around dusk. This cathedral is joined by La Seo, the Cathedral of the Savior, which is part of the Mudéjar Architecture of Aragon World Heritage Site.

Recovered as recently as the 1970s, Zaragoza’s amphitheater is the starting point for the quartet of Roman museums to which a combined pass costs only €7 (about $8). Walkways cut through the archaeological zone, allowing a closer look at the foundations and providing a sense of scale. The theater is accompanied by four floors of museum exhibits explaining the uses of the arena and digging into the culture of performance in ancient times.

The Museum of the Theater of Caesaraugusta is joined by three additional Roman points of interest. The Roman Baths Museum is the smallest of the group while the Caesaraugusta River Harbor Museum demonstrates how the river’s water levels have receded over the centuries. The Museum of the Forum of Caesaraugusta preserves the nucleus of the ancient Roman city and lets you wander through partially excavated tunnels.

These museums are all close enough to get around over the course of a few hours without feeling the pressure of a strict itinerary or having to faff with public transport. Even better, each one can be punctuated with a tapas stop.

Tapas and pintxos in Zaragoza

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Tapas bars in Zaragoza have a more intimate feel compared to other large cities. Menus tend to be in English but most of the tapas and pintxos plates are displayed at the counter to make things easier. Torreznos, fried pork with a similar texture to bacon, is a specialty to look out for although most menus are seafood-heavy.

The El Tubo enclave marks the heart of the Zaragoza tapas scene. Where you will eat in this warren of narrow alleys ultimately depends on where there is a spare table or a place to perch – the best thing to do is hop along and try the signature tapa at each tavern. Bar El Champi serves only one pintxo and it excels. This is three plump portobello mushrooms skewered on a wedge of bread, drizzled in garlic sauce, and topped off with a prawn. Right across the street, croquettes are the main reason to make a pitstop at Taberna Doña Casta. These are cooked to order and the croquetas de bacalao (cod) should be prioritized. Plates of huevos rotos come in handy for larger appetites.

Beyond the bustling El Tubo, you’ll find even more foodie spots. El Trujalico was one of my favorites, owing to the variety of tapas and the fixed menu. Sit at the bar where you can browse scallops in their shells, anchovies curled around olives, oysters, and strips of salted cod mingled with padron peppers. Head to Casa Dominó for dinner and order a spread of gratinados and montaditos (mini baguettes) to split.

If you like to plan your foodie stops when traveling, you’ll want to make a note of the opening days and hours. Most restaurants close a couple of days each week and they operate two shifts per day with a good number starting the dinner service after 8:00 PM.

Getting to Zaragoza

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Fast trains take one hour and thirty minutes between Zaragoza and either Madrid or Barcelona. It’s just about do-able to hop off and spend a day seeing the main sites. However, spending a night or two allows more time to enjoy the tapas scene and tap on an outing to the Pyrenees or a wine tasting in Cariñena.

One thing to know about Zaragoza: having at least some basic Spanish goes in your favor. Very few of the museums and menus carry English translations and audio guides aren’t a thing. This adds to the charm of the city and even knowing a couple of words goes a long way in this friendly city.