THERE IS THE CALIFORNIA we’ve all come to know and love the West Coast with its sun-kissed sand and colorful cities, its celebrated beaches and celebrity culture. Then there is the “other California” — the backbone of the state — the darker alter ego to California’s glittering coast. Here, where the Sierra Nevada’s silhouette is speckled with sweet smelling pine trees, where the fog hangs thickly over a moody palette of bluegray lakes. The scenery changes swiftly — from fairy tale-like views to desolate ghost towns to rolling sand dunes and striped canyons. Route 395 stretches from the Canadian border to Los Angeles, cutting a clear path through the Sierra Nevada mountains and Death Valley.