IT’S THE MIDDLE of Ghana’s rainy season. I’m in a shared taxi that’s trying to negotiate a road more suited to an amphibious vehicle. Tank trap potholes have become miniature lakes, and I’m reconsidering the journey to Akwidaa, a fishing village on the southwest coast of Ghana.
But the sun is coming out and highlife music fills the car. The other passengers are in good spirits. They’re on their way to a funeral — also known as a party in Ghana.