I SPENT EIGHT DAYS IN NAMIBIA without seeing an elephant. I saw elephant tracks through Damaraland and elephant dung through Brandberg, but not one elephant. In fact, I didn’t see any of the Big Five. But here’s what I saw that was even better.
The eerie Skeleton Coast and its frenzy of seals.
The Bushmen called the Skeleton Coast “The Land God Made in Anger” while Portuguese sailors named it “The Gates of Hell.” Others just know it as the world’s most inaccessible shore. Here is where crows fly through ocean fog and jackals lick the bones clean of springboks while the Atlantic crashes over skeletal remains of rusted shipwrecks. It’s where one would expect to be banished to a purgatory of Tafel Lagers and seal bones while waiting for judgement.