Photos: author

As an avid traveler I often get asked how I deal with, you know, stares, when I travel in regions where not a lot of black people travel.

A prolonged stare is creepy enough to rattle even the most intrepid of travelers. As much as we don’t acknowledge it, we all experience travel differently. Sometimes on a much deeper level than we’re even aware of. And unfortunately, some experiences can be marred by how people react to us…physically.

Here’s an excerpt from a piece I wrote awhile back that talked about dealing with stereotypes:

Your friend just returned from the trip of a lifetime – traveling around remote regions, being invited into homes of locals, feasting on ethnic spreads, and immersing herself in centuries-old cultures.

Seething with travel envy, you sign up for your own life changing trip, only to arrive there and find your reception quite different from that of your friend’s.

You’re not readily welcomed with open arms and you’re constantly being gawked at. At that moment, no one can understand the level of dejection you’re feeling…..

Situations like these can leave travelers confused and unsure of themselves. Having experienced a range of reactions from locals over the years – from acceptance to blatant rejection – I’ve decoded various types of stares into seven distinct types:

The “What on Earth?” stare

This is your typical “I’ve just seen a ghost look.” Usually reserved for older men and women and accompanied with a slight jaw-drop.

The “Hellooooo…baby!” stare

They’ve watched the music videos. They’ve seen the stereotypes on TV. So when they see you, they put two-and-two together and react based on assumptions. “They” being middle-aged men.

The “Frozen in Time” stare

Similar to the way a cow stops and stares, half-chewing and frozen in time. This usually happens when I saunter into tiny villages. They stop and freeze. This look also pops up on occasion in city settings especially with much older folk (80s and older) who freeze their steps and stare. The difference between the ‘What on Earth?” and this look is that the “What on Earth?”s keep on walking while these just freeze.

The “Covert Operation” stare

The sneakiest of the bunch, they use every reflective surface to observe and study you. Unless you catch them via their reflection in the mirror. Usually reserved for older teenagers (both girls and boys) and young men who find you attractive.

The “Confused” stare

They know I exist yet are taken by surprise when I turn up in their ski lodge or on their yacht.

The “Abject Fascination” stare

Just the other day I watched as a little boy barely 8 months old, strapped into a grocery cart, trailed me up and down an aisle with just his eyes. His dad, walking back from another aisle, caught his baby rubbernecking and we shared a lighthearted laugh.

Kids point. They stare. They gawk. Sometimes they laugh. If their natural curiosity didn’t bubble to the surface, frankly, I’d be concerned.

The “Utterly Disgusted” stare

Definitely the most difficult to stomach. Sometimes, you look over your shoulder wondering who they’re staring at with such loathing only to realize it’s…you?! Usually born from previous negative experiences or just deep-seated prejudice you really can’t change in a day.

Note – All of these types of stares, excluding the “Covert Operation” stare, are usually followed by some serious rubbernecking to make sure what they’re seeing isn’t a figment of their imagination.

So, how do I handle stares, you ask?

I just keep on traveling.

That’s the only way.

Culture + Religion
 

About The Author

Lola (Akinmade) Åkerström

Lola (Akinmade) Åkerström is a MatadorU faculty member and Network contributor. Her work has appeared in National Geographic Traveler, Vogue, BBC, Fodors.com, and many more. Follow her photoblog at Sweden.se.

  • http://carlo-alcos.com Carlo Alcos

    Hoo boy, do we know the stares. The worst and most relentless I’d say were in China. Eventually, I started talking to them, asking them if they liked what they saw, etc. This didn’t faze them one bit. Rather than look guiltily away, they just kept right on at it.

    Once, we had a “psycho” stare on a Russian train. For 65 hours.

    • Lola Akinmade

      @Carlo – Okay, that would totally freak me out, that 65 hour stare. You two probably get a lot of “Are They Together? Really?” stares just like Julie mentioned below. I know Urb and I do.

    • http://jrsince1980.blogspot.com Pastore Riel

      @Carlos – Whoa, man! A exactly does a psycho 65 hour stare entail? That sounds like a whole nother article.

      @Lola – For me I find that it depends what part of the world I’m in. Right now I’m in Kaohsiung, Taiwan and I’m not sure what stare you would call it, but it’s the one where at first you go completely unnoticed, until you open your mouth to speak and English comes out, or really bad Chinese, and EVERYone in hearing distance turns and STAAARES.

  • Radhika

    Oh, lord, if staring isn’t a national epidemic in India…and I’m ethnically Indian! If you’re a young female walking around ANYWHERE, you’re going to be gawked at, and I’m not even that attractive. I was also walking with my father and my older male cousin, no less. It’s crazy. I was thoroughly irritated, especially since it was men, both young and old, doing the staring.

    Europeans, thankfully, aren’t too bad about it, although I’m sure more people assumed I was Middle Eastern or Spanish…

    • Lola Akinmade

      @Radhika – I’ve never been to India. Would love to go. But from friends who’ve been, I hear staring is on a whole new level there.

    • http://amandasfulbright.blogspot.com Amanda

      I can bet you that Bangladesh is worse. I caused a little motor bike accident by walking down the street in a salwar kameez. The man couldn’t stop staring while he was driving.

  • http://www.matadornetwork.com Julie

    Even though I’m white, because my husband is black, we get “the stare” a lot. In some places, he gets the “What on Earth?” and “Frozen in Time” stares, which are followed by the “Are They Together? Really?” stare. And by no means is “the stare” limited to “foreign” countries. I think the most memorable (and terrifying) stare Francisco remembers is the “You Know I *Could* Kill You” stare at a Waffle House somewhere in Georgia, north of Atlanta. We’d been driving for a few hours and stopped for some food. As we walked in together, a man holding the door gave us the stare and said, “You know that someone like him has to pay, right?”

    Fortunately, like you, he hasn’t been stopped from traveling. Thanks for the light-hearted take on this issue, Lola.

    • Lola Akinmade

      @Julie – Haha! Love the “Are They Together? Really?”. Get that a lot with the Urb. It’s unfortunate the level of ignorance in some places. That guy at the door just reeked of it. Keep on traveling!

  • gsutiger2

    I loved this! This is SOOOOO true. Ive gotten stares so bad that I had to go look at myself in the mirror to make sure I wasn’t missing anything.

    • Lola Akinmade

      @gsutiger2 – Absolutely! It can totally make one constantly paranoid.

  • youreika

    This is EXTREMELY helpful. I’m teaching in china in July and as a young black woman, i’m a bit worried about my reception. Really good advice. =)

    • Lola Akinmade

      @youreika – Overall, you’ll be fine and have a great time. Just prepare yourself for stares and for the most part, you’ll learn to brush them off over time.

  • http://www.wandereverywhere.com Caitlin

    As a white foreigner in rural Burkina Faso I got a lot of these stares. But I’d like to add: the “everything you do is completely hysterical” stare and the “about to burst into tears” stare (unfortunately my ghost-white face has caused a few toddlers to cry. Pretty embarrassing.)

    While I was in Guatemala I spent quite a lot of time with a Liberian girl and she got stared at ALL the time and plenty of “la bonita negra” yelled at her. When we were visiting a different town that gets hardly any tourists in general, we were getting our bearings in a marketplace. A woman working in her stalls actually yelled at her children: “Kids… get over here and look at the black girl!”

    • Lola Akinmade

      @Caitlin – So true on the “Burst into tears” stare. I had a baby sitting next to me on a plane once and each time I glanced her way, she twisted her mouth, furrowed her brows, and was always seconds from screaming out loud.

  • Radhika

    You have no idea. It’s ridiculous. And good luck as a black woman in India – the discrimination there can get nasty, so be careful. I hope that’s not patronizing, but it’s true, unfortunately.

  • Radhika

    Lola: You have no idea. It’s ridiculous. And good luck as a black woman in India – the discrimination there can get nasty, so be careful. I hope that’s not patronizing, but it’s true, unfortunately.

    Sorry about the last comment, this is for for Lola!

  • http://kiratianatravels.com Kiratiana

    Yes I have experienced the stare down. But I do think that staring is not so much a taboo in other cultures as it is in America. We just think it’s disrespectful. I’ve been stared at in Morocco for wearing a skirt above the knee (never again) and in China for just being black (took alot of pictures too). I did get stared at on a train once as well….in Germany.

  • Meredith

    When I lived in Taiwan, I was stared at constantly. Honestly, I never got the attraction. I mean, Taiwan is an extremely homogeneous country, but it’s not like I was the only white girl in Taipei, especially around the university. Of course it got a lot worse outside of Taipei (we traveled to Kaohsiung, and you would have thought that the locals had never seen foreigners before). My friend and I used to joke that now we knew how it felt to be famous!

  • http://jrsince1980.blogspot.com Pastore Riel

    @Carlo Whoa! Seriously? 65 hours?? I don’t even understand what that involves!

    @Lola I find that, when it comes to being stared at for me, it depends on what part of the world I’m in. Right now I’m in Taiwan, and I’m not sure what you would call this stare, buts it’s the one where at first you’re completely non-existent, but when you open your mouth and English comes out, or really bad Chinese, all heads in hearing distance turn to STAAAAARE and then they eye you up and down, like a combo of the “confused” and the “abject fascination” stares. It’s pretty awkward. And I wanna say I’m very sorry about the last stare, it hurt me to think that anyone could ever look at someone else that way.

  • http://jrsince1980.blogspot.com Pastore Riel

    I find that it depends on what part of the world I’m in. I’m in Kaohsiung Taiwan right now, but my experience is different from Meredith’s, I’m not sure what stare is this, but it’s the one where at first you go completely unnoticed in public, no stares at all, until of course you open your mouth to speak and English comes out, or really bad Chinese, and EVERYone in hearing distance turns to STAAAARE you up and down, analyzing your hair, clothes, books in hand, everything. I’ve even had a child stop, pull on his mom’s arm, point at me and simply say, “Waiguoren…foreigner.” It feels like a combo of the “confused” and the “abject fascination” stares. My friend and I both have resorted to trying our best not to say anything to each other in public just to avoid the stares.

    and @Lola, I’m very sorry about that last stare of “utter disgust”, it hurt me to read that some people have that much hatred or misunderstandings in their hearts to treat another person that way.

  • http://matadortravel.com/travel-community/anne137 Anne M

    Your choice of photos for this piece were absolutely perfect. I think I’ve encountered all of those reactions before.

  • TerminalV

    Was in Lithuania on the first of December and got the “Abject Fascination” stare by a bunch a children while attempting to make a phone call in a booth.

    Must have been about 6 or 7 of them behind a ring leader who couldn’t help but inform the others by point and yelling that a Black guy’s actually making a phone call. I motioned for them to come closer and waved back! LOL

  • flamedot

    I know this is an old post but it’s a good ‘un so I’m going to throw in my two cents. I’m currently travelling around South East Asia with my boyfriend. I’m a Kiwi but of Chinese descent and he is pale white English through and through. The most common look we’ve received (especially in Vietnam) is the “is she a hooker?” stare. Not just the stare either, pretty much outright accusations. Eventually you get used to it :)

    I must admit the funniest stare was your “abject fascination” stare. My boyfriend had that from a Vietnamese baby passing on a motorbike. The baby followed him with a pointy finger as he whizzed past. You can only imagine he was thinking, “Look mummy, a real live white boy!”

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  • Riko

    Only had two places where I got really intense stares.
    When I first started shopping at a local Indo-Pak grocery, all the other patrons would stop and stare at me– the white boy– with a look that took me a few weeks to figure out. At first I thought it was disgust or discomfort, then I thought it may have been confusion but when the little old women started coming over and would look through my cart or basket, I realized they were just curious about what I was buying and how I knew what I was buying when it was clear I couldn’t read Hindi/Urdu/Bengali (I was mostly going by pictures and watching for the vegetarian symbol). Actually, after they got used to seeing me around, people would offer to translate labels if I was in one area for too long. Quite nice actually.
    The other place was in western Ireland, Tralee to be exact and I did not have such a warm reception. My shoulder length hair brought stares from anyone over 40 and even a few threats from old men. Luckily it was winter, so my hair was simply tucked into a hat for the rest of my stay.

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