Feature Photo: John Pavelka Photo: author

Looking back through old travel diaries shows Anne Merritt how she came to love teaching.

Recently I attended a group interview for ESL teaching positions. There, I met a handful of applicants who were young, cheery, and new to the field. The ink was still drying on their undergrad degrees, their passport pages were still unstamped. There was a giddy, nervous energy in the room. It was all familiar.

Back in 2005, before the iphone and the recession, before Lady Gaga and urban Ontario’s pho craze, I too was a newbie to the world of TESL and travel. I had been in their shoes before.

It made me feel wise. Soon after, it made it feel old.

These interviewees got me thinking about the past five years, how I entered the teaching world without much thought to it. To me, it seemed like a great way to spend a year after university, a way to travel without going broke.

A year turned into many years, and somewhere along the road there was a turning point. I realized that I actually loved teaching. It wasn’t just as a means to live overseas in cool places anymore. Somewhere in the course of time, it had become a proper career. I started flicking through old travel diaries, looking back on the first days in the classroom.

Apparently, I took to teaching as most take to long-term travel; not in one gushing high, but as a process of adaptation.

Photo: John Pavelka

First, there was the honeymoon stage, teaching in a small town in Thailand. I had never before been to Asia, or any tropical country, and every little thing in my daily life was fascinating. In the diary, I gushed and gushed. I loved the other expats, the tropical fruits, the motorcycle taxis, the teakwood houses by the river. I mention monkeys or elephants on every single page. At first I didn’t ponder the teaching job much. After all, there was so much else to take in. But I never grew bored of the job either. I liked the hokey pokey and barnyard animal flashcards. I grew hooked on making Thai children smile.

November 2005:

Today I taught my first class at a government school and absolutely loved it. The schools are huge and the kids are so sweet – they literally run after you and watch your every move like schoolgirls to the Beatles in A Hard Day’s Night – a crew of them followed me into the bathroom and giggled while I washed chalk off my hands. The classes have like 45 students in them, but they’re pretty cute. I always knew I wouldn’t mind this job, I never thought I’d truly like it. Who would have thought….

Next, came was the rut. Five months later, and the freshness of the unknown was fading. It had been my intention to write. Teaching was a means to a paycheck so that I could write. But after long days of work, biking from school to school and shouting over classrooms of 50+ kids, I was too tired to pick up a pen.

I would meet backpackers en route to Laos, just back from Cambodia, and their stories filled me with travel envy. The cheery students were not longer a novelty. Now, when they ambushed me in the hall and tugged at my clothes, it felt invasive. I was less of a novelty to them, too, and they weren’t afraid to tune me out mid-lesson. A foreigner, they had learned, couldn’t punish them. Not really. Yep, this was the grouchy phase of culture shock. I had it bad.

April 2006:

Teaching requires just enough imagination to drain the creativity from me. I think ESL hurts my vocabulary. And I feel like a babysitter. Maybe I want to go home?

So what happened next? Eventually, I did go home. I finished my contract, traveled around Asia, then returned to Canada again. I worked a crummy barista job, didn’t get into grad school, and took off for more teaching instead. Teaching ESL was my Plan B; I was making some money, traveling again. The plan was to go abroad and bide more time trying to figure out how to get back on track in academia. But oh, life’s surprising.

I took a teaching job in England at a summer ESL camp. The campus was stunning, a place I came to refer to as Hogwarts. The students, like all teenagers, did not want to spend their summer in a classroom. At times it seemed impossible, trying to engage them in English lessons. But I spent hours planning, hours picking the brains of other teachers, and at some point things fell into place. The classes became a lot easier, a lot more fun. We had debates! We performed plays! We learned grammar points and we didn’t even mind! The once sullen students had become some of the funniest people I knew.

Halfway through the summer, I put the A-Ha! moment on paper.

August 2008:

Today Elisaveta told me I’m her favorite teacher. Celine came knocking on my door because she was homesick, just wanting to be in someone’s company, not alone in her room. Tomas hung around shyly after class, asking for advice with a girl problem. Today I sat in teacher’s room for two hours planning lessons and getting so excited thinking about how these sweet and intelligent kids will take on the materials I’m preparing. Maybe I really love this job.

Two years and two countries later, I still do.

ESL Teaching
 

About The Author

Anne Merritt

Anne Merritt has lived in Canada, Europe, and Asia. She teaches ESL, writes, haggles, hikes, and wears sunscreen fanatically. Her work has appeared in The Globe and Mail, GoOverseas.com, and The Compass. Check out her blog.

  • http://onceatraveler.com Turner

    Good timing on this one: I’m headed to Korea in a few months to go back to the regular one-year contract teaching ESL, having completed my honeymoon period in Japan. I don’t know if I could do it long term… I just spoke with a former AEON teacher in Manhattan who started her own tutoring company after finishing her year… maybe I’ll end up doing the same.

    • http://matadortrips.com/ Hal Amen

      Hey, good luck in Korea, Turner! That’s exciting news.

  • http://matadornights.com Kate

    I love this piece. I have mostly taught adults. but I find it so rewarding in so many ways. Watching people open up to a new idea is a mutual pleasure, satisfying and exciting. And it does get easier!

  • http://amandankorea.tumblr.com Amanda

    Great article — really hit home with me.
    I also started teaching ESL as a way to travel… only to realize that I really love teaching ESL and one of its benefits is travel.
    All my previous contracts have been short enough that I never really hit the “rut.” However, I am currently working in Korea on a year contract, just passing the 4 month mark, and have definitely hit that rut.
    And just when I think it can only get worse, one of my students will come to me with a water balloon and a big smile, and I’m reminded that it’s all worth it =)

    • http://annemerritt.blogspot.com Anne M

      If a Korean child approached me with a water balloon and a smile, I would worry.
      Sounds like you’re getting through the rut, Amanda. Good luck in South Korea!

  • Mich

    hello! I really enjoyed this piece, and can relate. I, too, grew to love teaching, quite gradually.

    I didn’t teach ESL overseas, or use it as a means to travel; i actually taught English to adults in my own home country (Singapore). But the joys and struggles are the same.

    I do not teach at present, but i am sure that i’ll go back to it one day. There are too many fond memories i have from my time as a teacher, and many more to still be made.

  • Stephen

    Just a few days away from my telephone interview that will hopfully land me in Korea for my first ESL teaching gig and I stumble upon this Article. I absolutely love this site, it has helped me answer so many of my lingering questions with great articles such as this one. Teaching ESL was something that was mentioned to me by a friend as I became concerned with finding a job after graduating college but I put it on the backburner and pursued something within my field of study. After working my dead end job now approaching 4 years, I want out. Traveling the last 2 years has opened my eyes so much and this is my escape. Great article, I hope to have the same experience as you all seem to share.

  • Anna

    Reading about your progression reminded me of the past year I spent teaching in Japan. I got my master’s and teaching license and all that, but after poking around for a couple years, life seemed pretty lackluster.
    Returning to Japan to teach English was lovely, extremely difficult (all alone out in the country!), and therefore so much more rewarding. I was fortunate to have so much creative autonomy in designing lessons…
    I am just getting started on my teach-and-travel life, and I am always amazed at how many people have managed to do it successfully. At the moment, just trying to decide where to go next.

  • http://hatyao.wordpress.com/ Paul

    Great article. I am about five months into my first year teaching ESL in Trang, in southern Thailand. I’m teaching Mathayom 1, and depending on the day and the group, it can be rewarding or it can be frustrating (45+ 12- and 13-year olds per group). I, too, took the job initially thinking that it would be a good way to make some money, travel, and to allow me time for my writing. But I’ve come to really enjoy it as well. I’m on a one-year contract, but am planning to either extend it or go elsewhere in Thailand, if I can find somewhere with smaller class sizes.

    Just want to say it is encouraging there are others out there who have been down this road, and have made it work. I certainly know the feeling of the “rut” and of doubting everything about what you’re doing. Where did you teach in Thailand?

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