Photo: viaj24h / Feature photo: wandering angel

While the “tourist/traveler” debate is a dead-end, can we assert that luxury and life-changing travel are generally opposite to each other? Ross Tabak explores the answer.

You’re sitting in a dirty alleyway, perched on a bright blue plastic stool eating the best bowl of noodles you’ve ever had.

A group of fanny-pack toting tourists shuffles by, following their guide’s umbrella and craning their necks to hear her narration. You let out a chuckle, happy to be on your own, free of the constraints of an organized tour and content in the knowledge that they have no idea what they’re missing.

You return to your hole-in-the-wall guesthouse, only to find that the tourists and their umbrella are staying on your floor.

The tour group mentality has always been an easy target for anyone who travels, making us feel better about our own adventures and providing a convenient Other to poke fun at.

It’s getting harder and harder though, with companies like Urbane Nomads billing themselves as “travel mixologists” and blurring the line between hardcore travel and hand-holding tours.

According to them, they’ve:

“turned the typical tourist itinerary on its head- taking the tourist through a city’s back alleys, revealing its seamier (and/or more interesting) side , continually testing the limits of accessibility in travel or using a local folkloric legend as a premise for an itinerary revealing current social and political problems.”

The Back Door Philosophy

Up until recently, almost all tour companies have presented their services with an image of ease and relaxation – you can’t open an issue of Conde Nast Traveller without seeing the words “style” or “luxury” – but what they’re selling is ultimately far more about leisure than travel.

Urbane Nomads is offering tours that guarantee life-changing experiences without having to exert yourself to get there. This is totally antithetical to the things I’ve come to believe through traveling.

Going it alone and spending as little money as possible provides a far richer experience, something everyone’s idol Rick Steves has always espoused with his “back door” philosophy.

It’s true that a lot of backpackers do it on the cheap purely because they’re broke, but most at least pay lip service to this idea of staying close to the ground.

Rightly or wrongly, travelers often feel like their journeys are constantly under siege by everyone else’s.

Think of the backpacker who laughs at you for paying 140 Baht for a guesthouse when he only paid 115 – we’ve all met that guy and a lot of us have been him. Examples like that come off as a little insane, but that sentiment is a common thread even among veteran travelers.

Much as we’d like to play the part of the hardened vagabond, we’re all afraid of everyone else cheapening our “authentic experience.”

From what I can tell, Urbane Nomads actually does threaten to do that.

Urbane Nomads is offering tours that guarantee life-changing experiences without having to exert yourself to get there. It’s presenting hardcore adventure – placing yourself in unfamiliar and unexpected situations for the purpose of discovery and personal development – as something that can be done free of worry and hardship.

This is totally antithetical to the things I’ve come to believe through traveling. Adventure isn’t just about the highlights; it’s the everyday misery and difficulty that produces the best stories and clearest insights.

Departure From The Urbane

If, in twenty years, this sort of thing becomes the norm, will anybody really value travel as a holistic experience anymore? If it’s acceptable to watch a Mongolian polo match on the steppes and go home to a perfect cosmo in your five-star hotel bar, have you learned anything about yourself, Mongolia or travel?

Camels in Mongolia / Photo: mooney47

Sure, no one will stop you from riding a bicycle down the Karakoram Highway, but as writers, artists and photographers we all know that it’s never just about us. If the image of adventurous travel as a series of dizzying highs and backbreaking lows is watered down to a flattened, five-star package tour, where will you and I fit?

Of course, there are two sides to everything. As dire as I’ve made it sound, there seem to be some great things about Urbane Nomads.

It’s run by one person, not a huge corporation, which makes me believe that their commitment to sustainable, ethical and personally enriching tourism is sincere. Their owner says that, “Under her guidance, the itineraries and destinations offered by Urbane Nomads reflect a concern for the social, cultural and historical nuances of the destinations visited.”

It’s also probable that, before this company existed, their clients would have spent ten thousand dollars on a luxury tour of Western Europe instead of hot air ballooning in Burma.

As a concept, I think Urbane Nomads is the sort of tour company we’d all like to run. It’s the “urbane” part that bothers me.

Adventure has always been a departure from the urbane, and if we begin to blur the lines between everyday comfort and eye-opening experiences we stand to lose the most important aspect of travel: to transform ourselves.

Community Connection

Check out F. Daniel Harbecke’s classic The Last Article On the Tourist/Traveler Distinction You’ll Ever Read. Also don’t miss From Tourist To Travel In 5 Easy Steps.

What do you think? Am I being too hard on companies like Urbane Nomads? Share your thoughts in the comments!

Culture + Religion
 

About The Author

Ross Lee Tabak

Ross Lee Tabak is a freelance writer and photographer based in Southeast Asia. He runs the adventure blog We're Lost and Everything is Dirty.

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  • Siobhan

    Dear god, I think I just broke my eyeballs from rolling them too hard.

    While some of my best vacations have been when I have happened into a situation with hardship (unexpected expenses, robbery, etc), I have had some amazing vacations with comfortable rooms and plenty of money to spend.

    Because sometimes, there are great things that you want to experience that actually cost money.

    Far more insufferable is the traveler/tourist/whatever they want to call themselves who think that the amount of money one spends or does not spend is in any way a mark of superiority or can somehow lead one to a greater revelation. I’m satisfied with people getting out of their own environment. Far be it from me to contend they’re not doing it the right way.

  • http://www.501places.com Andy Jarosz

    Great article Ross, and a subject close to my heart. The answer to your question, I strongly believe, is yes. I am viewing it from my biased viewpoint of course, as a 40 yr old who has done the $5 a day backpacking many years ago and now chooses a more comfortable way to travel.

    Now having worked and diverted almost all of our savings into travel, my wife and I still travel with the same insatiable appetite for experiences, chance encounters and great food that I had in those days of penny-pinching. Only now, we will choose a nice clean hotel room if it’s available, eat in the place that look cleanest rather than cheapest, and will indulge in an occasional expensive airline ticket to allow some sleep (and a bit of pampering) on a long flight.

    Do we miss out? I honestly don’t think so. We normally travel independently, and choose our overnight stays according to convenience at the time. It might be a 4 star hotel, it might be a tent. The encounters I have had with wealthy locals sitting in a bar in Malta have been every bit as “authentic” as those while camping in the mountains of central Asia.

    In short, the opportunities to get the most from our travels depends on our own approach to it, and our own inquisitiveness of the world around us. With the right attitude, life changing experiences are everywhere for us to find, whether living it up or slumming it.

    Adventure travel is a state of mind, not a state of wealth.

  • hellifiknow

    thank you siobhan…i thought i met a lot of snobbish entitled people in the entertainment industry, but travel snobs are plentiful and just as annoying!

  • http://www.roamingtales.com Caitlin

    I’m with Siobhan and rolling my eyes.

    You seem to equate luxury with a package tour, which is a bit weird. Luxurious organised tours do exist but budget to midrange options are far more common. Most luxury travellers are operating independently.

    The even weirder thing is that in your scenario the tour group is staying at the same hotel as you. What were you doing that’s so different?

    I rarely book packages and I’m not much into organised tours, though I think they have a place. For example, walking tours of cities can be a fabulous way to learn about a city’s architecture and history and a few hours later you’re on your own again.

    I can’t afford luxury all the time but I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy it on occasiona and from my experience your ideas about it seem quite wrong to me. Staying at the Paradores Alhambra and being able to go out for a moonlit stroll around the gardens was far more authentic and immersive than staying at a backpackers hostel in downtown Granada would ever be. Ditto staying in the luxurious converted cave of the Museum Hotel in Cappadocia, Turkey, rather than a modern budget hotel or backpacker’s. “Glamping” in luxury tent cabins on a tropical island with only 12 people on the island got me far closer to nature than a budget resort with hundreds of people. (Sure, I could have gone camping but I don’t think cooking baked beans over a camping stove would have heightened the experience for my honeymoon).

    This just strikes me as inverted snobbery and frankly, it’s a bit silly. A truly open mind would know that travel comes in all shapes and sizes and one is not necessarily better than the other.

  • http://www.planyoursafari.com Johan

    Interesting article that raises indeed many questions.
    I back-packed for a year through Africa, and although it did enrich me in a personal way, I would, at age 46, not do it again.
    Later on I did however work for 15 years in the luxury safari business in Tanzania and Botswana and I truly believe that the guests I met had a personal enrichment feeling on their own level as well.
    I therefore agree 100% with Andy if he says that (adventure) travel is a state of mind and not a state of wealth.

  • http://www.sibagu.com Greg Pringle

    I come from a different camp. I am a “long-term sojourner”. I’ve lived in two separate countries for more than a decade each. The backpack industry created the notion of “authenticity of experience” that they believe put backpackers on a higher level than anyone else. Living with locals and speaking their language, I believed that I had a far more “authentic” experience than any of those backpackers who came through trying to get instant and authentic exposure to a culture that they had little knowledge of. I scoffed when people told me of their great adventures. How much did they really know? One relative told me of coming across a wizened old lady with a donkey on a mountain trail in the Middle East as a true “travel experience”. I mean, that’s exotic, but if you couldn’t speak her language and know what her life is about, it’s no more authentic than seeing her through the window of a tourist bus.

    I’ve changed since then. I can see now that I was just as much a victim of the “authenticity” spiel of the backpack religion as anyone else. Who are we to judge other people’s experiences? In a sense, we are all on a journey through life. Each person has his or her authentic experiences, from which he/she learns, suffers, or grows richer. The backpacker with his/her stuttering attempts to use a few hackneyed phrases in his/her latest destination, listening to natives expounding yet again their (often hackneyed) views of the world, will still gain from his/her experience, just as much as the long-term sojourner locked into his/her particular existence, the executive traveller trying to make sense of the business practices of his customers, the leisure traveller seeking to exploit selected aspects of the destination (e.g. sandy beaches), and all the other people who for some reason or another find themselves outside their own country.

    Unfortunately, Ross still half clings to the original religion, which is why this article has attracted such scathing comments. On the one hand, no one can “buy” authentic experiences in an organised manner, whether you do it on the cheap from some backpacker’s guidebook or pay for someone else to smooth the bumps with a bit of luxury. On the other hand, all our experiences are authentic, unique to ourselves, helping us enliven, broaden, and enrich our world. In the case of travel experiences, the challenge is, as the backpackers suggest, breaking through the frustrating barriers that prevent us from truly entering the environment in which we find ourselves and making the most of our opportunities. I would suggest that the attempt is just as important as the final result. “Backpacking” is — should be — a state of mind, not a dogmatic, ritualised approach to travel.

  • Amanda

    I think it’s important to realize that everyone is different and has different ideas of “cheap” or “expensive.” Also, people have different levels of confidence. I know plenty of amazing people that are just too nervous (and getting too old) to step outside themselves alone and hop on a plane and stay in dirty hostels — but WANT to. A program like Urbane Nomad gives those people a chance to try it, and maybe once they get comfortable, then they can try on their own.

    I know personally that I would have never moved on my own to Bangladesh if five years earlier I didn’t go on an expensive student tour with several of my closest friends and mentors in Italy. Some people are great and jumping in, some of us need steps to learn the ropes. Who are we to judge that just because someone is staying in a 5-star hotel that they aren’t sitting on the dirt floor of some slums the next day helping kids read, and are at the five-star hotel because of back problems they got from teaching organic farming to kids in the mountains of Costa Rica?

    Read my blog, a recent update of finding a beautiful truth at a party at a 5-star hotel: http://amandasfulbright.blogspot.com/2009/10/finding-diamond-in-rough-case-of.html

  • http://carlo-alcos.com Carlo

    Can’t we all just get along?

  • Andrea

    Traveling with children involves other considerations. One can have an authentic experience at another level. My husband and I use the skills we learned when traveling the “low-cost” route but prefer to know where we are going to stay (not 5-star!) when we get to a destination. Skills like shopping locally for food, walking or taking public transportation, and going to places the local families go (parks, zoos, lakes, ball games, beaches, town squares) not only keeps costs down but connects you to pulse of local life. We have traveled to many countries in Central America, Europe and Australia (sometimes work -related) with our kids.
    It is all good. After high school our son traveled 6 weeks in (non-euro) Europe for only $1500. And to celebrate my in-laws 70th wedding anniversary, we were all invited on a cruise to Alaska (age range 10 to 95 years old).

  • http://travel-junkie.com Boris

    It’s ridiculous to think that you have to live on the cheap to have an authentic, life-changing experience (hardly any experience is authentic anyway; that’s only possible if you’re a local). Sure, the hardship of sitting for 30 hours in a minibus going up the Karakorum Highway makes for a great story afterwards, but while you were sitting in that bus, most people would have given their left arm for a comfy seat in a normal-sized air-con bus.

    Of course, if all you do is sit in your comfy 5* hotel room and only go as far as the beach bar, then you won’t have any experience at all. In the end it’s not about how much money you travel with, but what you do while you’re travelling and you can do everything a skint backpacker is doing when you’ve got money, plus some more.

  • http://michatheperegrine.googlepages.com michaela lola

    I’ve been helping out with a luxury travel company. As an avid budget backpacker, I was hesitant at first to promote such tourism. However, I’ve recently realized that my former view of “authentic travel” (no showers for days, heavy backpack, taking the long way round, etc.) was ALSO just as limited. I was looking down my nose on an experience that is highly subjective and personal. Yes, I definitely still enjoy roughing it. But on the other hand, there have been many occasions, where I’ve just wandered aimlessly, wasting precious daylight hours searching for a hostel or a campground or waiting at the bus station, whereas other folks have already gotten a chance to see the sights, eat with the locals, etc. Really, who is to judge? And I’ve also found that many of these companies not only give access to locations that others normally couldnt get a chance to see/experience/stay (due to either lack of knowledge- a guidebook doesnt contain everything, budget, permit requirements, etc.), but many of these agencies are actively promoting ethical tourism, green travel, job creation, preservation of cultural and environmental landmarks, helping NGO’s, promoting awareness regarding the destination…..

    AND I used to work for a travel website l and for work, I attended a tourism conference in Barcelona. I was surprised to learn that the margin between budget backpackers and mid-range to luxury travelers was not as big as one would think. In fact, some backpackers would actually spend as much and in some cases more than someone who did a tour…THe difference was just what they spent it on. Backpackers saved on accomodation and transport but spent the same/more on more impulsive things like drinks or last-minute items/accomodation.

    I’m still a backpacker at heart. The only difference is that I don’t want to be a judgemental one. Really, who is to say what a travel experience means to a person? Who is to say what is more authentic? Sadly, the irony of this all is that this view of defining an “authentic travel experience” makes one believe that they are being open-minded and not a non-conformist, but in reality, it’s just another narrow-minded perspective. Enough with the judging.

  • http://michatheperegrine.googlepages.com michaela lola

    Crap…sorry, it’s 5 am here. I meant “one believes that they are being open-minded and not conforming to society”

    I just think the whole traveler vs. tourist debate has been beaten to death. On some occassions, it seems like just another form of snobbery.

  • http://whoisandrewcollinson.com andrew collinson

    I do enjoy some luxury at the end of a hard trekking adventure.A bit of both is OK.

  • http://www.ecoluxelifestyle.com Kalia Living

    I think that life changing travel and luxury can definitely coexist. In this day and age, there is no reason that travelers shouldn’t be able to explore the corners of the world and experience the best of another culture as well as retire to a comfortable luxury room at the end of the day. Everyone is entitled to experience world travel in the way that best suits their lifestyle, and the fact is that people who lead plush lives want to travel in much the same way.

  • http://www.TheAccidentalExpats.com emma

    As someone who has done quite a bit of both, I fully agree. I backpacked on my own around Australia and found that I was having a wonderful authentic experience with the ten or twenty other backpackers who were all on the same buses between towns, treckng to the same beach or looking at the same dolphins at the same time. We were not on an organised tour, but we al did the same things! There is also the very common authentic experience of sitting in backpacker bars….. you know how that turns out. Don’t get me wrong, I loved every minute, but as Michaela said, sometimes organised tours (they come in all shapes and sizes) can take you places you wouldn’t otherwise be able to go. I think a company like Urbane Nomads may help people who might not have the confidence to do any travel out to see the world. Experience is completely relative and life changing experiencs can come from anywhere if you let them.

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