Repost This ArticleJOSTLED BY CROWDS of international pilgrims and local Palestinian Christians, I was struck by the rich breadth of cultural expression — and the occasional elbow. Navigating the layers of religious and political tensions wasn’t easy. Jerusalem’s Old City was annexed by the state of Israel but is still considered “occupied Palestinian territory” under international law.
At times the only way through an Israeli checkpoint was to let the surging crowds of the faithful force me forward and hope for the best. By week’s end, dodging forests of Catholic crucifixes or getting splashed with Orthodox candle wax didn’t bring me closer to Jesus, but the devotion in the face of a Palestinian child, Brazilian teen, or Russian mother was truly inspiring. 
Christian pilgrims
On Palm Sunday, a procession of Christian pilgrims carry palm branches from the Mount of Olives to the Old City of Jerusalem.
Drummers
The Palm Sunday procession traces the traditional path of Jesus' "triumphal entry" into Jerusalem the week before his crucifixion. Here, Brazilian Christians beat out festive rhythms for the march.
Olive branch offering
At the time of Christ, Jerusalem was under Roman occupation. Now, heavily armed Israeli soldiers control East Jerusalem, which contains both the Mount of Olives and the Old City. Here, a Palestinian boy offers an olive branch.Intermission
Priest
A priest stands among the multitudes as they pass through Lion's Gate into the Old City of Jerusalem.
Palestinian Lutherans
Once, most Holy Week pilgrims were local Christians with a smattering of internationals. Now, with movement restrictions imposed by Israel, the trend is reversed. Though some Palestinian Christians living outside of Jerusalem are given special permits to enter, many more are denied access. Here, Palestinian Lutherans lead a Maundy Thursday procession to the Garden of Gethsemane.
Church of Mary Magdalene
Maundy Thursday marks the night that Jesus was betrayed and arrested before his crucifixion on Good Friday. Here, believers gather for prayer in the Garden of Gethsemane at the gold-domed Church of Mary Magdalene.
Arabic hymns
As darkness falls on Gethsemane, a Palestinian Christian child sings Arabic hymns by candlelight.
Pilgrims on Good Friday
On the morning of Good Friday, the day Christ was crucified, pilgrims from many nations fill the streets of Jerusalem's Old CIty.
Checkpoints and barriers
In the midst of the Good Friday crush, locals, tourists, and pilgrims face various checkpoints and barriers that Israeli forces open and close at unpredictable intervals.Intermission
Via Dolorosa
The Via Dolorosa, the traditional path that Jesus carried his cross to the crucifixion, is filled by throngs of pilgrims from many Christian denominations.
Russian Orthodox pilgrim
A Russian Orthodox pilgrim clutches a crucifix while walking the Via Dolorosa.
Palestinian Christian youth
On Holy Saturday, the day before Easter, Palestinian Christian youth wearing Jesus t-shirts chant and sing in the streets of Jerusalem.
Church of the Holy Sepulcher
An Orthodox priest stands near the domes of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the traditional site of Jesus' crucifixion and resurrection.
International pilgrims
While a Palestinian Christian perches for a better view, international pilgrims hold candles in anticipation of the Holy Fire ritual, where a flame originating in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher is spread among the crowds gathered in surrounding streets.
Holy Fire ritual
With candles lit during the Holy Fire ritual, Palestinian Christian youth surge through Jerusalem's streets in celebration the day before Easter.
Easter morning
In the early twilight of Easter morning, worshippers gather for a sunrise service on the Mount of Olives.
Sunrise over the Jordan Valley
As the sun rises over the Jordan Valley, those assembled celebrate Christ's resurrection on Easter morning.Travelers Stoked on this Gallery
Ryan Rodrick Beiler
Ryan Rodrick Beiler is a photojournalist and writer most interested in the intersection of human rights, armed conflict, social justice, and spirituality. Born and raised at a Mennonite retreat center in rural Pennsylvania with a passion for the outdoors, he spent 10 years in Washington, DC, working with several political advocacy organizations and publications, including 10 years as the Web Editor for Sojourners magazine. Over the years he's traveled in Central and South America, Sub-Saharan Africa, and has extensive experience in Palestine and Israel. He currently lives in East Jerusalem, where all of his favorite issues collide on a perpetual basis.
Enough of your pro “rag-head” commentary. Christians and Palestinians do NOT “own” Jerusalem.
Ryan, your pictures are beautiful and I think they really capture the fervor of the religious climate in the Holy City. I have to agree, I didn’t feel particularly inspired standing in a line of sweating, elbowing tourists at the Church of the Manger in Bethlehem. In fact, I’m not sure I’ve ever been LESS inspired. But the teary eyed faces of Christian pilgrims in the Old City, the rocking and chanting of the Orthodox Jews at the Western Wall, and the call to prayer at the Temple Mount were what was truly humbling. Whether you’re religious or not, it’s hard not to be humbled by the joy these people find in expressing their faith.
Great job!
The
Jerusalem’s Old City wasn’t just annexed, it was as a result of a 6-day war that wasn’t started by Israel. I would expect from a journalist to be a little more objective. If you decided to point out that ”
is still considered “occupied Palestinian territory” under international law” , it only makes sense to point out the other fact as well.
Just my HO.
Ehhhh, that is not a fact, and your response to him wasn’t any more objective.
The notion that ”Israel didn’t start the war” is highly contested. True, there was buildup along the Sinai for many weeks leading up to the initiation of the conflict. So what it really comes down to is whether or not the Egyptian presence in the Sinai should be considered “the first strike” and whether or not that act of provocation was enough to warrant an Israeli airstrike. But it’s impossible to argue or prove that the first military strike across borders wasn’t Israel’s. Because it was.
Eshkol was a bundle of nerves who couldn’t make a decision. The US voiced concern about the implications and refused to give diplomatic approval for for an Israeli preemptive action. The Russians were playing the Egyptians like pawns in their quest for Cold War power. It was a clusterf*ck.
The only “fact” is that the real facts are never as cut and dry as each side would like them to be.