Valerie Ng breaks down her curiosity.
Taiwan flag

Photo: jeansman

1. The Controversy

I grew up thinking of Taiwan as a sovereign nation not unlike Japan or France. As it turned out, not everyone sees it that way.

The People’s Republic of China, its neighbor across the Taiwan Strait, regards the democratic island as a renegade province unwilling to reconcile with the motherland.

When China became a member of the United Nations and the International Olympic Committee after decades of absence from international engagement, Taiwan (which previously had been representing China) was expelled from both bodies. As a result, Taiwanese athletes compete at the Olympics and other international sporting events as part of a delegation called “Chinese Taipei,” and under a specially designated flag.

I feel that a visit is necessary to better understand Taiwan’s ongoing saga with China. Its tricky geopolitical status also means it rarely gets any major recognition on the international stage, so it’s time that I make my way there and show it some love.

National Place

Photo: keepwaddling1

2. The Treasures of the National Palace

The Forbidden City is definitely on my list for Beijing, but it contains only half the historic artifacts and artwork collected by China’s imperial families. I want to see the rest as well, which will require a visit to the National Palace in Taipei.

Near the end of the Chinese Civil War between Chiang Kai Shek’s Nationalists and Mao Zedong’s Communists, the directors of the Palace Museum in the Forbidden City gathered as many pieces as they could and sent them to Taiwan before the Communists seized the museum, an effort that likely saved the collection from being destroyed during the Cultural Revolution.

The over 677,000 cultural pieces are now housed in the National Palace, a collection that alone would make it worth the journey to Taiwan for me.

3. The Colonial History

Like many Asian nations, Taiwan has a history of foreign settlement dating back to the 1600s.

A Portuguese fleet that came across the island in 1544 fell in love with its landscape, calling it Ilha Formosa, or beautiful island, which stuck as its Western name during colonial times. The Dutch arrived in the 17th century, set up a colony, and built a fort on Penghu Island, the ruins of which still exist.

For the first half of the twentieth century, the Japanese occupied Taiwan, and their legacy remains in the form of roads, railways, hospitals, schools, government buildings, bathhouses, and cuisine.

I’ve been fascinated on my previous travels in Asia by the dichotomy between native culture and imperial vestiges. I think Taiwan will provide another interesting study in post-colonialism.

Community

Photo: epler

4. The Aboriginal Communities

I’m aware that 98% of the country’s population is made up of Han Chinese who began migrating to the island in the 14th century, around 15% of whom are the descendants of dissidents who fled the mainland after 1949. But I know little about the remaining 2% who make up Taiwan’s aboriginal communities.

Recently, there has been a resurgence in celebration of aboriginal culture, which is attributed in part to an ongoing search for a distinct Taiwanese identity.

I’ll make sure to check out the Shung Ye Museum of Formosan Aborigines, located opposite the National Palace, which showcases the cultures of Taiwan’s aboriginal peoples, as well as some of the aboriginal villages along the east coast, like Fusing, Bulowan, and Mataian, to acquaint myself with the native inhabitants of the island.

5. The Food

The Taiwanese are among the most voracious eaters in Asia, with a rich and complex culinary tradition, which features both aboriginal and Chinese influences. The cuisines of various Chinese regions, including Szechuan, Fujian, and Guangdong, are also well represented in the country’s restaurants and street stalls thanks to the influx of migrants after 1949.

Nightmarket

Photo: LWY

The Japanese left behind their cuisine too, so there’s wide availability of sushi and other Japanese-influenced dishes.

The New York Times’ Frugal Traveler Matt Gross, whose wife is from Taiwan, has written about his affection for Taiwanese cuisine, including in the current issue of Saveur magazine. He goes so far as to suggest that food is “one arena in which Taipei blows Beijing away.”

I’m looking forward to sampling xiao chi — or small eats — including fried buns, oyster omelets, peanut candy, and the infamous stinky tofu. The Shilin Night Market, known for its food vendors, is most likely where I’ll get my fix.

Are you drawn to any countries in particular? Which ones and why?

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COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Talk Taiwan with other Matador travelers currently in the country.

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About The Author

Valerie Ng

Valerie Ng is a freelance writer based in Berkeley, CA. When she's not traveling, she looks for ways to experience foreign culture in her backyard. Her writing has appeared in World Hum, The Travel Channel, The Dallas Morning News, Not For Tourists, and TangoDiva.

  • http://www.suite101.com/profile.cfm/erindesantiago Erin De Santiago

    Glad to see another article on Taiwan! I still believe it’s one of the most underrated travel destinations in Asia. I’ve lived there a year now and find myself sad at the idea of leaving next year. There is obviously so much more to Taiwan than just what you mention here. Once you visit, it’s hard not to fall in love with the island (especially the food). I love living in a big Asian city, but within 30 minutes of the incredible scenic eastern coastline. Places like Taroko Gorge and Yehliu Geopark rank as some of my favorites on the island so far.

    If you schedule a trip, please let me know – I’ve spent the last year eating my way through Taipei and can direct you to some amazing places (including some food stalls in other night markets that beat out Shilin in my opinion). I just finished giving the night market tour to some friends visiting and I have to say, the consensus still is that stinky tofu is the most horrific food in the world. I managed to get down 3 pieces before gagging, while my friends managed only one. If you really want to try the “best” stinky tofu, consider somewhere like Dai’s House of Unique Stink (this is the stinky tofu that beat out Andrew Zimmern).

    Besides the crazy foods, there are some amazing eats that beat out many other places in the world I have traveled. Taiwan is such a culinary melting pot – influences from Asia and other parts of the world allow you to experience many authentic foods without ever leaving Taipei city, including high-end restaurants from world renown chefs like Joel Robuchon.

    • http://valeriewng.wordpress.com Valerie

      Thanks for the tips! I’m hoping to get over there this fall, probably in November. I’m quite curious about stinky tofu – there are places to try it here, and I can still remember the stench emanating from a tofu shop near my Chinese school that would hit the air at around 11am every Saturday.

  • jlee

    I’m going to Taiwan this summer and possibly staying through fall to study Chinese. I’ve wondered the same things about the political relationship with China and can’t wait to talk to Taiwanese about that. Thanks for a great overview!

    • http://funtaiwan.achi.idv.tw Achi

      So are you in Taiwan now,jlee?

  • http://matadortrips.com/ Hal Amen

    When I flew into Taipei in 2005, there were posters all over the airport urging visitors to lobby the UN to recognize Taiwan as an independent nation. That was really the first I’d heard of the issue–quite fascinating.

    Nice piece, Valerie.

    • http://valeriewng.wordpress.com Valerie

      If I remember correctly, Taiwan is the largest country (if I can call it that) that isn’t a member of the UN. I doubt it will happen anytime soon though, if China has its way.

  • http://eccentrictravels.blogspot.com Epiphanie Bloom

    Hey Valerie, I’m really interested in going to Taiwan too! My first partner was from there. I also recently made a new friend in a rural town in Tainan through CouchSurfing, and I’m very curious to explore all around the island as well… but I think I will spend the most time in Taipei!

    I have travelled to Shanghai, Hong Kong, Guangzhou and some southern places in China, but I don’t feel comfortable going back anymore because of my increasing understanding of the human rights abuses of the government, so Taiwan can provide me with the coolness of traditional Chinese mentality, but nurtured by a democratic mindset.

    Hope to read about your trip after you return; I’m not sure when I can go yet. :o )

  • http://eccentrictravels.blogspot.com Epiphanie Bloom

    The last smiley was meant to be: :)

  • http://julianehuang.com Juliane

    Hey Valerie, great article. :) The ethnic breakdown is off though, as Han people don’t make-up 98% of the population. It’s something around ~70% Han, 2% Aboriginese.

    Let me know when you go! I miss it a lot; you’re going to have a fantastic time there.

  • http://www.intelligenttravelblog.com Marilyn Terrell

    The National Palace Museum collection is astounding and the new building well designed (it was under construction when I was there), I loved the dumplings in Taipei — I’ve never found their equal anywhere, and I keep looking. Taroko Gorge has great hiking and spectacular scenery, I wish I’d spent two days there instead of one; you can spend the night in Bunun, an indigenous village with great music: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkmRJLKqY7s. and relaxing hotsprings (go at night and watch stars). Alishan National Park has lush forests and you can spend the night in the lodge and they’ll wake you early to watch the sunrise over the Sea of Clouds, don’t miss the grove of ancient giant trees where all the trees have names and dates (and giant stumps left from where the Japanese cut them down to make tori gates in Japan). Kenting on the south coast has a lively night market with a beachy vibe and stunning national park with unusual geologic features. But above all the friendly welcoming generous people make this an excellent place to visit. My friend @CheesyLady lived there for 9 months and had lots of fun adventures and wrote about them on her blog, The Travel Telegraph:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkmRJLKqY7s Hope you have a super time!

  • http://dcmuseumgoer.com Julia Ross

    Yes to all of these, but especially number 1. If you’ve ever traveled to mainland China, you’ll feel the difference from the moment you get off the plane in Taipei.

  • http://www.traveltaiwanguide.com sarah

    you should start planning your trip :D

  • Meredith

    I think one of the best reasons to see Taiwan right now is that it’s currently on a cusp. It’s in a wonderful place right now where it maintains a lot of it’s old traditions, while embracing the new. I’m willing to be that in another 10 years or so, it will be on the same level as Japan (not only in a worldwide scope, but tourism wise as well). Right now you can even travel to Taipei and still be the only foreigner around in some areas (obviously this does not apply around the schools). I lived in Taipei for awhile last year, and it remains one of my favorite places in the world. Also, the best thing about Taiwanese food – plenty of delicious vegetarian options!

  • Matt

    Anyone know a good school to work for in Taiwan? I’m thinking of Taichung, but am open to other locations.

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