Street sign, Juneau, Alaska

Photo: MarmotChaser

Matador co-founder Ross Borden discovers there’s a lot more to do on a winter trip to Juneau than hang out at the bar…although that can be fun too.

TO BE QUITE HONEST, I didn’t expect much from Alaska’s capital city. Wandering through downtown, which consists of a single street, it’s quickly apparent that this is not a very lively place in the winter.

Although there’s no shortage of dive bars, most everything closes early, and the famous Red Dog Saloon, apparently a hotspot for eating and drinking in summer, is completely vacant. Nothing but touristy t-shirts in the window that read “Juneau, AK: A quaint little drinking town with a fishing problem.”

Fishing boats, Juneau

Photo: MarmotChaser

This is not the summer high season, when Juneau becomes a rotating door for massive cruise ships bringing more than half a million people into the tiny town.

In July, there are so many attractions that cruise ship passengers — most of whom only have between 4 and 8 hours to explore before it’s time to “set sail” — have tough decisions to make.

In February, though, Juneau seems desperately boring on the surface. The bears are all hibernating, most of the fishing rivers are frozen over, and the spectacular mountains surrounding the Mendenhall Valley stay hidden in the clouds.

But the more time I spent in town, the more it grew on me, and as I explored and connected with the local people, I found all sorts of adventures to keep me occupied.

If you’re passing through Juneau in the winter, here are 7 things to keep you stoked.

The Silverbow Inn

This is the place to stay in Juneau. Run a by a very cool couple who live in the loft next door, the Silverbow has a homey vibe but includes all the amenities of a five-star hotel. The rooms are spotless, the staff is amazing, and they set you up with everything from an iPod-ready audio system to a hot tub on the roof.

The best part is the Silverbow bakery, which is attached to the hotel and brews up fresh coffee and cooks breakfast and sandwiches on a sourdough recipe that’s more than a hundred years old. This place is legit.

Dog sledding on Mendenhall Glacier

Sledding, Mendenhall Glacier / Photo: Sonny Side Up!

The Sandbar

I don’t care if the Red Dog Saloon is Juneau’s hotspot. My bar will always be the Sandbar. Located 15 minutes out of town by the airport, this place is an authentic Alaskan dive.

I rolled in there around 10PM and the night was just getting started with aggressive drinking and lots of quarters being fired into the jukebox. I’ve never walked into a bar and had the bartender recognize I was from out of town and proceed to introduce me to the entire bar.

The halibut burger tasted like it was caught about an hour ago, and I stayed for hours chopping it up with the locals, a great mix of business leaders, loggers, and fishermen.

Alaskan Brewing Co.

I had been drinking down Alaskan Ambers and thoroughly enjoying them since I stepped foot in AK. But I love the brand even more now that I’ve seen where it comes from. This place has a great story, which was told to me by one of the brewmasters — quite a character.

Like many microbrew startups, the odds were firmly against Jeff and Marcy Larson when they founded Alaskan in 1986.

Nugget Falls, Alaska

Nugget Falls / Photo: trentroche

To get it off the ground, they took $5K investments from 80 Juneau residents and focused on brewing great beer.

Those who laughed at their offer in ’86 are surely kicking themselves now — Alaskan is booming and profitable, turning out more than 20 different brews each year.

Still, they’ve kept their operation small, only producing 126,000 barrels of brew in 2009, the equivalent to what Anheuser-Busch pumps out every 8 hours.

Whether it’s the ultra-pure glacier water or their passion for making great beer, I liked just about every one I tried, and the brewery is a great stop to make.

Eaglecrest Ski Area

I had come to AK to heli-ski, and when I arrived I didn’t know one ski area in the state by name.

Just across the bridge from downtown Juneau on Douglas Island, there’s a little ski area called Eaglecrest. This place is actually run by the city and like many things in Juneau, it has a very strong community vibe. No high-speed lifts or $94 tickets here, but they have some amazing terrain.

Mendenhall Glacier

Photo: MarmotChaser

Eaglecrest is ideal for side-country skiing, with tons of hiking options and a very liberal open gate policy. Everyone seems to know each other and the group of skiers and riders who frequent the mountain sneak in runs before and after work.

It had been dumping for two days and we had an amazing day there — 2 feet of fresh pow and untracked turns down the outer bowls all afternoon. I was also very impressed by the level of a lot of the riders on the hill…people were charging!

Mendenhall Glacier

Alaska has a way of making you feel very small, and a visit to the mouth of the Mendenhall Glacier does it to the extreme. Just one of 38 glaciers that extend down from the Juneau Ice Field, the Mendenhall is 12 miles long, more than a mile wide, and is 800 feet thick in some spots.

They’ve built a nice visitor’s center with telescopes that look out over the glacial melt and right into the jaws of the beast. You can also freely hike up to the glacier or even onto it, if you have the right gear. Everything here is free and it’s only a 10-minute/$14 shuttle from town. Don’t miss it.

Alaska Powder Descents

If you want to get out of town for the day and up into the “real” mountains, check out Kevin and Sean at Alaska Powder Descents. They have helicopters and all the gear for any adventure, from glacier exploration to heli-skiing.

I got a chance to ski with these guys a couple times and they’re good people, very knowledgeable about whatever it is you want to do, from kayaking with whales in the summer to heli-boarding in winter.

From what I gathered, regardless of the season, you can essentially design your own multi-day adventure and they’ll make it happen.

Perseverance Theatre

Looking for a bit of culture before retiring to the rooftop hot tub at the Silverbow? Don’t miss the very funky Perseverance Theatre on Douglas Island.

We went and checked out their current production, “BOOM.” It was well acted and had a pretty crazy plot and was packed with sexual energy and language. I was shocked at what I was seeing until I noticed in the program that the guy who wrote it was from San Francisco.

Community Connection

For more looks at backcountry heli-skiing, don’t miss the original video Brian Chu shot with Ross Borden earlier this year: Heli Skiing in the Ruby Mountains, NV [MATADOR ORIGINAL VIDEO].

Trip Planning
 

About The Author

Ross Borden

Ross Borden is one of the founding members of Matador. He has lived in Spain, Kenya, and Argentina and currently resides in his native San Francisco.

  • http://www.sarah-park.com Sarah

    RAD. Bookmarked! I have been wanting to sneak away to AK for years now, and I feel like this is a perfect excuse.

  • http://musictravelwrite.wordpress.com Michelle

    The Sandbar sounds awesome! What a cool bartender.

  • http://matadortrips.com/ Hal Amen

    When I look at Juneau on a map, I think “total backwater.” Thanks for setting me straight, Ross. I never would have considered a trip there before this.

  • http://www.candicedoestheworld.com Candice

    My sights were set on Anchorage but now I totally want to check out Juneau. Too awesome.

  • http://nancythegnomette.com Nancy

    Sounds like a cool little place. I have an affection for small fishing towns, especially ones that have glacier water brews and friendly bars like the Sandbar.

  • http://www.expatheather.com Heather Carreiro

    Wow, I’ve never thought about visiting Alaska in the winter, but your trip has intrigued me. Great title – did you buy one of those t-shirts?

  • http://milesofabbie.com Abbie

    I’ve actually been thinking about visiting Alaska a lot lately, now I actually have some good recommendations!

  • http://metalchick.net/travel Lindi

    Who would have thought Alaska in the winter would be the place to be? Thanks Ross for the awesome recommendations. I can’t wait to check it out!

  • http://www.sharingtravelexperiences.com Andy Hayes

    Alaska has long been on my hot list. There is mother nature, some great people offering great hospitality, and that fresh air that revives even the most stressed out of folk.

    Great tips Ross – definite a destination bookmarked!

  • Ross

    Hi Heather, Thanks for the comment. I did not buy one, but I did get a sweet shirt from the Alaskan Brewery ;)

  • http://thetravelersnotebook.com david miller

    i’ve really wanted to check out alaska forever.

    this piece makes it seem like the “low season” is really the time to go.

  • http://www.deliciouschaos.com Nick

    Sounds exactly the same as Cairo ; )

    Seriously though – great piece. Not sure Alaska was even on my radar before, but now I really want to go!

  • juneau res

    Ive been living up here for about 4 years now, and i thought this article really does Juneau some justice. you definitely found the right spots to hang as an outsider.

  • douglas dude

    I have to agree with juneau res… thanks for touching on some of the places and activities that make this little hamlet a great place to call home.

  • Salmonguy

    Wow, sounds like Juneau is a great place to be in the mid winter, lots of incredible snow, unaccessible pow pow peaks, crappy dive bars, with true hard core locals that never go to those bars because they are too busy playing in the mountains and fishing … oh wait I forgot I live here, never mind … I must have a drinking problem…??

  • Erin

    This article is great! I’m a born and raised Juneauite and it makes me happy that someone painted us in a great light like this as a winter vacation spot! :)
    But one thing I must say is that The Red Dog has never been considered a “hotspot” for locals, at least as far as my knowledge extends. It’s a tourist destination, which is why it’s only packed in the summer.

  • Ross

    Roger that, Erin. It did look that way. I should have made that more clear – “tourist hotspot” is what I meant :) Are there any other local bars worth checking out?

    Thanks for the comment!

  • Kent Pillsbury

    I live in Juneau; have for almost 3 years now. Though I appreciate your brief, whirlwind tour guide, I have to say you barely scratched the surface. You never mentioned Auke Bay, or any of the other spectacular sights and places out the road, presumably because you didn’t get any further out than the silly Sandbar. You should do Marlintini’s on a fight night, or Squire’s Rest on tournament night–pool or darts–if you’re truly looking for authentic local color.

    Perseverance is recognized nationwide as one of the best small theaters in the country. They have very strong connections with NY, LA, Chicago, Austin, and a bunch of other theater hotbeds. Though there is extensive, top-drawer theater talent locally, we also routinely host artists from all over the world. And that is but one of the theater companies in Juneau. At my last count there were at least 4, not counting the incredible job they do on the high school productions. Then of course, there’s the Juneau Symphony, and the Juneau Opera, both outstanding, as well as the Alaska Folk Festival in April.

    All this goes on in the “off season”, i.e., when the tourists and other riff-raff are far, far away. In the summer, locals never venture anywhere near downtown, especially anywhere near the cruise ships. There are over 90 marked and maintained trails throughout the mountains surrounding Juneau, some even wheelchair-accessible, and all of them offering unbelievable sights. And of course, you can always venture “out the road”, all the way to Echo Cove, and the bevy of spectacular, magnificent things to see and do along the Lynn Canal.

    The local Audubon Society offers an annual day cruise to Berner’s Bay. Indescribable. And the state ferry system can take you in less than a day to all kinds of amazing places: Pelican, Angoon, Skagway, Ketchikan, Sitka, etc., etc. In fact, you can ride the entire length of the ferry system for as long as you like. There are berths, showers, kitchens–a floating motel, actually. It’s not the Ritz, but the Ritz doesn’t have this scenery, or destinations.

    Skip Anchorage, which anyone in Alaska will tell you is “only 30 minutes from Alaska.” It’s flat, dull, ugly, and FULL of rednecks, especially in the Mat-Su Valley—REAL Palin country.

    Come to Juneau and enjoy the winter with the other 30,000 of us. You might not leave. Happens a lot.

  • http://www.ourtastytravels.com Erin De Santiago

    Like you, I visited Juneau on my own versus on a cruise ship. I was there during the summer (July 4th weekend) two years ago and absolutely fell in love with the quaint charm of the town and the incredibly friendly locals. It was relatively busy a few of the days as cruise ships rotated in and out, and extra visitors came to enjoy the holiday weekend.

    For locals’ hangouts – I preferred Hangar on the Wharf to some of the other downtown bars. Since it was warm, it was great to be outside and watch the float planes land in the channel.

    During the summer months, I would highly recommend a day trip to Tracy Arm Fjord and Sawyer Glacier. Since this is an all day trip, many cruise ship passengers cannot take advantage of this tour unless they are in port overnight. Steve and Gary from Adventure Bound Alaska Tours were great and really made the long journey worthwhile. The fjord and waterfalls were spectacular, but I was speechless after seeing the massive icebergs with bald eagles and seals perched upon them. We were rather lucky and had the added bonus of a few humpback and orca whale sightings.

    One of my favorite memories of the trip was halibut fishing on Auke Bay. We did not catch a single fish, but I didn’t care – just being out in the middle of the bay with no one else around made it the perfect day. I was lucky enough to go on someone’s private boat – it was literally just the two of us in the perfectly calm waters as the storm clouds cleared and the sun finally peeked through the mountain tops. I had never felt more at peace than I did right then – which was the whole goal of my weekend away there.

    Reading your article makes me miss Juneau and leaves me more convinced I need to get back there again soon.

  • mark

    Juneau is a great community for young folks who enjoy the bars, the music, the mountains andthe ocean. You asked about other bars, the Alaskan is a prime spot for locals but there are many more downtown that aren’t dives (and there are a few of those too).

    Juneau’s also great for families with excellent community arts, museums, kids activities and a chill, healthy-but-not-toooo-healthy vibe.

    C’mon up and check it out.

  • never should have left!

    Having a future father-in-law in Juneau is how it started for me. We came up from NC on Christmas day. My girl and I, along with our local Juneau-in tour guide and his girl, hit up all the local bars you’ve mentioned, and one very important one you didn’t. The Hangar on the Wharf, known around town as “The Hangar,” was by far our favorite watering hole and has the greatest scenery ever, while still sitting at a bar! Hell, we both liked it so much, we got engaged there at the stroke of midnight on New Years Eve! Talk about an engagement party! Anyway, point being it’s an awesome place with great flavors and Alaskan brews, and the people are fantastic! A friend of the future in-law was knitting a beanie while we played dice at a table in The Hangar….. I ended up with that beanie and yet another Juneau-ite friend to see when we return! The pizza down the hallway from The Hangar…Pizzeria Roma, absolutely amazing place to stop when you’re done soaking up the suds! From going “out the road” and seeing the Mendenhall Glacier, Juneau’s a captivating place, and this is only a scratch on the surface of my experience there…one that left me saying…”I never should have left!” Here’s to you, Juneau! Cheers!

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