TO EVEN VAGUELY UNDERSTAND Bangkok is to understand that life transpires out on the streets. Not the main roads mind you, but the tiny neighborhood sois that unite the community. People flood the sidewalks each night as soon as it starts to cool off — men match wits over chess, teens gather to watch soccer, lovers stroll as lovers always do.
And at the heart of it all is the street food. Tuk-tuk drivers recharge with a quick bowl of soup, students chat over shaved ice, and old men scarf down chicken rice while nursing a Singha.
In Bangkok’s Ratchathewi district, just a 15-minute walk from the megamalls of Siam, you can find vendors hawking everything from spicy stir-fried pork to toxic durians.
Unless otherwise noted, directions start at the soi that intersects the Ratchathewi BTS station and the Asia Hotel.