I don’t do surfing.
I don’t mean for that to come off like it sounds because I’d actually love to learn to surf. And the reason–five reasons, actually–are below. If you’ve ever read the writing of the folks included in this week’s members to meet, or seen photos of them killing it in the world’s oceans, then you’ll know why– surfing is stoke. Meditation. Adrenaline. Focus. Risk. Fear… but fear conquered, over and over again.