An otherwise quiet corner of Madrid’s central Recoletos neighborhood wasn’t where I expected to tap my boot to a raucous rendition of “Ain’t Gonna Give Nobody None of my Jelly Roll,” the jazz-era blues classic popularized by performers including Sweet Emma Barrett and Louis Armstrong. Yet I quickly passed a Tuesday evening to such tunes at Recoletos Jazz, a small and dimly-lit subterranean jazz parlor located a block off the expansive Retiro Park, inside the AC Hotel Recoletos. Indeed, tapping my foot to the sweet rhythm of classic New Orleans jazz while on a trip to Madrid was an unexpected delight, particularly for this former punk rocker. The hotel, a neoclassical 19th-century marvel, impressed on fronts beyond entertainment, and over the course of a November stay in this city famed for its tapas and museums I found an appreciation not only for this property but for a brand that maintains the character of the historic buildings in which it operates.
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The band at Recoletos Jazz kept my feet tapping all night. Photo: Tim Wenger
Visiting Madrid had long appealed more to me than did a trip to Barcelona or other over-touristed parts of the Iberian Peninsula. I think that’s due to the city’s neoclassical architectural heritage and the charm that it maintains as such, in contrast to the high-rise heavy capital cities of North America, and the lack of crowds experiencing it, particularly in the off-season when I traveled. The city’s tourism rush, as it were, happens during the summer months, and throughout a November visit I found myself surrounded almost entirely by locals who, passing on the street, silently reminded me of how well-dressed and smoothly stylish the Spanish are in comparison to Colorado-bred vagabonds like myself.
Also, I know a few people who live in the city as expats and who endlessly rave about its character – balancing the distinctly European cafe culture and urban conveniences (trains! transit! walkability!) with a casual Spanish lifestyle.
The AC Hotel Recoletos proved an ideal place from which to experience this due to its central location. I Ubered from and to the airport but otherwise didn’t step into a car over the span of three days in the city. From the hotel, I was able to meander over to Retiro Park for an afternoon stroll to experience the well-manicured gardens and watch the birds sail above the lake, stopping for a few minutes to listen to the buskers perform on the bustling central pathway. Visiting iconic sites in the city including the Royal Palace and Almudena Cathedral, having an aperitif at Plaza Mayor before walking through Mercado de San Miguel, or patio tapas at the Plaza de Olavide, was easily done via Madrid’s extensive and impressively efficient metro system. The same is true when visiting the city’s rich museum scene, including stops at the National Archaeological Museum and to see modern art at the Reina Sofia Museum.
Exploring beyond Madrid is easy from the hotel as well. I took a day trip to the historic city of Toledo and walked 15 or so minutes from the AC Hotel Recoletos to the Madrid Atocha train station, stopping for coffee beforehand at Scarlett Atocha across the street from the station. Heading to Barcelona, Valencia, or elsewhere is doable from the station as well.
Often, though, I’d walk from the hotel with no set goal in mind, simply hoping to absorb the city’s vibe and history by strolling through its central neighborhoods. I found excellent people watching and cozy pubs in the narrow corridors of La Latina, where many say the best tapas experiences in Madrid can be found. I walked the hedge maze in the Plaza de Oriente behind the Royal Palace, and had dinner and drinks at the trendy StreetXO, located on the top floor of a mall and with a hip clientele that didn’t mind mingling at the bar ahead of the restaurant’s 8 PM seating.
As I wandered the streets of the city, what I appreciated most was continuous vibrancy. People sat over drinks and smokes on patios overlooking pedestrian boulevards and alleys lined with cafes and shops. Finding a good place for a beer or plate of empanadillas is effortless (at one point I circled the Plaza de Olavide three times because I couldn’t decide which patio to choose, landing on round three at a table outside Bareto Olavide). It would have been a shame to return from such adventures to a stock hotel that contrasted from the local flavor – and I was so glad I didn’t have to.
Rooms at the AC Hotel Recoletos
Photo: Marriott
I stayed in a standard King room on the 4th floor with views upon the neoclassical architecture of Recoletos. I felt a part of it each time I opened the door onto the mini-balcony, which hit best first thing in the morning – Spanish cities famously arise late, and a 7:30 patio session provided both the calm of the wee hours and the sunlight of proper daytime. The bed was a comfortable Serta pillowtop that eased the jetlag transition from the trans-Atlantic flight over. I slept well each night, which is uncommon for me in the days after a long-haul.
The bathroom was clean and straightforward. Notably, the shower water heated with little resistance, avoiding what has become, over a decade of near-constant work travel, my number-one pet peeve about hotels – when the shower either doesn’t get warmer than “warm” or takes forever to get there. I’ve always appreciated the detachable European showerhead, which prevents one from bending into awkward positions (and potentially slipping) when they’re merely trying to clean themselves.
Spain’s nightlife stretches long past the standard North American “last call,” and in a centrally-located hotel that means people making their way back from the pubs and clubs and at all hours, laughing and conversing as they walk past. The noise was never overwhelming and easily avoidable with a pair of noise-cancelling headphones.
On-site amenities at the AC Hotel Recoletos
The view from my room at the AC Hotel Recoletos emphasized the city’s neoclassical style. Photo: Tim Wenger
It surprised me how much different the jazz club looked under bright lighting. The breakfast at AC Hotel Recoletos, served in the club from 7:30 AM, was a well-lit execution of Euro morning staples – multiple cheeses were offered, of course, with sliced meats and jams. Each morning I’d slice a serving of fresh bread and pair it with yogurt and granola and a hard-boiled egg. Espresso is standard and quick, made to order and brought to the table.
Recoletos Jazz and the hotel’s AC Lounge serve a Mediterranean menu of staples such as cured beef with pistachio oil and croquettes – both common dishes in Spain – red tuna patacones, mini-burgers, and a full bar menu. I paired the tasting menu with wines and found myself both spiced and sauced when I stood up to leave following the band’s set, stoked on an experience that felt both classy and cool. Reserving a table at a jazz club isn’t something I’d think of doing back home, but when visiting Madrid I felt right at home in the front row.
A small gym is located on the lower level, as is guest parking. The front desk staff is helpful and available to recommend dining and tour options, and the main lobby level features a lounge that, when not reserved for a private event, makes for a great spot to settle in on the laptop and get some work done. The hotel, overall, is easy and efficient, providing a classy stay but without the stodginess of more boastful luxury properties.
The AC Hotel Recoletos outshone a city that radiates class. My memory of the hotel sits among stays in fine boutiques that I’d never have the chance to experience were it not for a company other than my own picking up the tab. AC Hotels isn’t the “black sheep” of the Marriott Bonvoy portfolio, but it is the three-striped leopard – it hits so well that it’s difficult to believe you’re earning Bonvoy points while having such a time. 