I breathe and surrender to the experience. It’s my first time swimming with sharks, but after a moment, I’m able to relax and enjoy the wonder of these graceful, prehistoric-looking creatures all around me.
A few hours later, adrenaline receding at Alaia’s suspended rooftop pool, I order a rum punch with the satisfied air of someone who has earned each sip.
Photos: Stratton Lawrence
I’m guilty of neglecting my room when I travel. There’s so much to explore, and the room is a place to sleep, after all. But at Alaia, part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, I’d decide to go sit by the Caribbean or the pool and then fail to peel myself away from my ocean-facing porch (one of three patios in my one-bedroom suite). It seemed a shame not to spend every minute possible on this private lanai with its comfy couch, protected from the elements but open to the sea breeze.
My 1,300-square-foot suite — more square footage than the three-bedroom house I share with my family at home! — included a king-size bed with a deep desk nook (although I could never bring myself to work while at Alaia), a waterfall shower (stocked with refillable shampoos and soaps that reduce the plastic load on the island), and a separate half bath. If I’d had friends to host, there would’ve been plenty of room for a small party, including a full kitchen with a large island and bar seating, plus an indoor living room area that rivaled the outdoor one. The handsome, coastal aesthetic felt thoughtful but pleasantly subdued.
After exciting days exploring the reef and Ambergris Caye, I made it out the door for dinner. Still, on my final morning, I stretched out the pleasant hours in my suite by ordering breakfast to the room: a cappuccino, mango juice, and avocado toast smeared with beet hummus and topped with pickled onions. I enjoyed it all on my porch, looking out at the world’s second-longest reef.
For families that need even more room, Alaia’s two-bedroom suites sleep up to five people, while the three-bedroom suites in the resort’s original Caribbean-style Reef House sleep up to seven. To truly spread out across 2,500 square feet, book one of the standalone three-bedroom oceanfront villas, each with its own plunge pool.
Photos: Stratton Lawrence
If you never left Alaia (other than by boat to visit the reef) on a trip to Ambergris Caye, you could still argue that you’d enjoyed the island’s best cocktails, upscale dining, and views. You should get out and explore — the resort offers golf cart rentals that let you roam the island — but you won’t find a better view than the 360-degree vantage from atop Vista, a bar and restaurant with a pool suspended six stories in the air. On my first evening at Alaia, I ate snapper sashimi while a rainbow formed over the reef. Whatever the best rooftop bar is in your city, the view at Vista is better.
On my third afternoon at the resort, I took advantage of K’in Spa & Wellness for an hour-long Swedish massage with just the right amount of pressure. Although the well-appointed gym almost convinced me to work out, the three outdoor pools (including the suspended, adults-only one) were too inviting to exert myself too much on a short getaway. Distractions from my novel in the late afternoon were limited to the occasional iguana scampering across the pool deck and periodic dips under one of the pool’s relaxing waterfalls.
Photos: Stratton Lawrence
The x-factor across Alaia’s six restaurants is culinary director Alex Alcantara, who can easily shift careers to motivational speaker if he ever tires of the kitchen. In addition to excellent meals at Vista (sushi and BBQ ribs) and Sea Salt (mole duck), my visit aligned with the Tuesday evening Chef’s Table in the Cellar, a six-course wine pairing that’s as much interactive dinner theater as it is a meal. A complex sun-dried tomato soup with stone crab and scallion-infused olive oil made the biggest impression.
During the meal, Chef Alex used darkness, smoke, and even examples of intentionally off-the-mark flavor pairings (like tajin chicharron and cabernet) to demonstrate the power of culinary chemistry during a two-hour experience that left me satisfied and inspired.
Alcantara’s focus on education is reflected in his sourcing. He’s a top buyer of lionfish on the island, encouraging hunting of this invasive (but delicious) species. The restaurant grows many of its greens and vegetables on site, reducing its reliance on ingredients that must otherwise arrive by boat or plane.
Breakfasts at Sea Salt also make an impression, whether opting for the daily evolving buffet — worthy of an Easter brunch — or the à la carte menu. There’s a roving mimosa cart, but I held off in anticipation of afternoon cocktails by the pool.
The most memorable flavors in liquid form came via an hour-long mixology class at Arlie’s, the newly revamped speakeasy hidden behind mirrored glass in the lobby. I built cocktails with tamarind-infused rum and a Thai coconut margarita before local celebrity mixologist Johan broke out a specially designed smoke machine, adding incredible depth of flavor to his signature Old Fashioned.
Photos: Stratton Lawrence
The highlight of my trip to Ambergris Caye was snorkeling at the reef, an experience Alaia makes easy. The resort’s private boat, Reel Escape, is helmed by Captain Fito and first mate Joe, offering full-day excursions to explore the reef, swim with nurse sharks, feed tarpon, and eat a fried seafood lunch at neighboring Caye Caulker. Although certain species like the tarpon gravitate toward spots where food is proffered, Captain Fito was careful to keep our distance when he spotted two manatees hovering over a freshwater cenote, skillfully navigating us just close enough to see them rise for a breath.
If I’d had more days, I’d have booked a fishing trip with Captain Fito to troll for tuna and bottom fish for snapper. I’d also consider returning to get my PADI dive certification. Alaia’s on-site dive shop and spacious main pool make it an ideal base for learning to scuba dive. You’ll make your first dives on one of the world’s premier reefs, and if you’re ready to go deeper, the famous Blue Hole is just a few miles away. The resort amenities sweeten the deal, whether you’re traveling with fellow divers or leaving your sweetheart (or family) to relax by the pool.
Whatever excursions you opt for, expect friendly, personable service. Perhaps it’s the lack of a language barrier (Belizeans nearly universally speak English, in addition to Spanish and Mayan dialects), but I especially appreciated the depth of conversation the locals I interacted with were open to having. Alaia’s employees seemed eager to please guests, but their demeanor never felt deferential. My openness was met with genuine kindness, happy banter, and excitement to talk about their home and heritage.
Photo: Stratton Lawrence
Although there are ferry options from Belize City, most visitors to Belize’s islands connect directly at Philip S. W. Goldson International Airport (BZE) via Tropic Air or Maya Air, the two local airlines serving San Pedro on Ambergris Caye. The 15-minute flight in a 15-seat propeller plane over turquoise water added to the adventurous feeling of arriving somewhere special.
Within 10 minutes of touching down, I was in Alaia’s shuttle for the five-minute ride to the resort. From there, you can stay put, take long walks or runs around San Pedro, or rent a golf cart to explore the island’s local restaurants and bars. I was glad I took the half-hour ride to Secret Beach, a quickly developing area of the island with white sand and clear waters where you can order a fresh coconut directly to your shaded table in the water. On the ride back, I stopped by Truck Stop, a food hall built into shipping containers, for an ice cream cone I didn’t earn in any way but enjoyed every lick of.
On my way home, I opted to stay an extra night in Belize City to explore the colonial old town. The owners of Alaia operate a sister property, Fort George Hotel & Spa, that serves as the perfect base to visit the Belize City craft market for souvenirs. I picked up local crafts for my kids before running a 5K circuit through the city that doubled as sightseeing and penance for several days of caloric overload.
Of course, the Coco Loco crafted from local rum I enjoyed during sunset at the hotel’s over-water ceviche bar — and the breakfast tacos I scarfed down on my final morning at Treehouse, the light-filled on-site restaurant — negated any benefits of my run before my journey home. But vacation is about adventure and indulgence. Alaia delivers both. 