A Town Once Thought to Be Cursed Is Now the World's Newest Dark Sky Park

While Saudi Arabia (and neighbor state the United Arab Emirates) are known for modern development, often associated with flashy lights and sprawling cityscapes, AlUla is almost the exact opposite. The historical walled city was founded in the sixth century BCE and is still inhabited today. It sits in the northwestern part of the country and is known primarily for vast deserts, sandstone mountains, and ancient heritage sites, as well as its proximity to popular tourism sites like Hegra and Elephant Rock. Saudi Arabia has been making a significant push to attract international tourism, creating an easy-to-get tourist visa for international visitors, and developing both high-end hotels and luxury glamping options. Many of the town’s lodging options are set a few miles from Old TOwn AlUla, offering stargazing experiences in the desert surrounded by towering rock formations, gorges, and ancient ruins.

Until not too long ago, many people around the world thought AlUla was cursed — at least if you were Muslim. The belief that AlUla, and especially the ancient city of Hegra, were cursed stems from a story in the Qur’an. According to the tale, thousands of years ago, the area was inhabited by the Thamud people, who were warned by a prophet that they needed to follow Allah’s guidance. As a sign, Allah sent a camel to the town and warned the Thamud not to harm it. However, a few residents defied the warning and killed the camel. As the story goes, as punishment, Allah sent a devastating earthquake that destroyed the Thamud and left the city in ruins. Until recently, many followers of Islam avoided the city. While some people may still hold that believe, now, the story is mostly a key part of the town’s cultural history.

Like many small towns in the Saudi desert, AlUla didn’t get electricity in town until the mid-1980s. And since it’s very new to the Middle East tourism track — with most hotels and lodges opening in the last two years — it’s entirely free from light pollution. And it’s likely going to stay that way.

Photo: Photography AlUla

AlUla is a key destination within Saudi Arabia’s ambitious Vision 2030 plan, which aims to reduce the country’s dependence on oil and transition to renewable resources; improve the cultural, recreational, and social quality of life in the country; and encourage tourism development through historic sites, such as AlUla. The development plan for AlUla is based entirely on sustainable growth, with a focus on turning the historic town into a hub for desert travel and tourism, international students and archaeologists, and wildlife, with significant swaths of land set aside to preserve habitat for the critically endangered Arabian leopard (which has less than 200 remaining animals).

Part of this plan was recognized in the designation of the AlUla Dark Sky Park by Dark Sky International, which praised the town’s culturally and environmentally sound plans for growth. “The Royal Commission for AlUla (RCU) is overseeing the project, implementing guidelines and measures to reduce and prevent the future growth of light pollution, preserving these dark nights for generations to come.”

Photo: Experience AlUla

The good news is that because AlUla sits in the Arabian Desert, almost everywhere is ideal for stargazing. In fact, the international Search for International Intelligence (SETI) already unveiled plans in partnership with the government to build a high-end observatory in the region. The official dark sky park includes the AlGharameel Nature Reserves, about 40 miles from AlUla, as well as AlUla Manara, very close to the Old Town. So you’ll find stargazing experiences just about everywhere in the region, either at your hotel, or through local guided tours.

At AlUla-area hotels, you’ll find stargazing offerings ranging from a sound bath under the stars several nights a week at Our Habitas AlUla to guided stargazing sessions in the reserve with Banyan Tree Alula. You can also camp in designated areas around AlUla, or book guided night sky tours with companies like Husaak Adventures.