Imagine this: You arrive in the storied French mountain town of Val d’Isère to find the narrow streets filled with flags from around the world. Music is blasting and the scent of piping-hot pastries and fresh waffles slung from food trucks makes your mouth water as you follow the buzzing crowd to the bottom of “La Face de Bellevarde,” the mountain’s most iconic black-diamond ski run. You’re at one of the liveliest events in skiing, in a town whose history of ripping down the slopes goes way back. It’s called the Critérium de la Première Neige, and it’s the annual official opening of France’s events within the biggest ski event in the world.
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The Ultimate Ski Race Experience: Partying at the Val D'Isère FIS World Cup
Val d’Isère is a commune and ski resort in the French Alps, near the border with Italy. Most people reach it by catching a shuttle from Geneva or taking a train from Paris to the Bourg-Saint-Maurice station, about 30 minutes from the mountain. It’s one of Europe’s premier ski resorts and transforms into a high-speed playground every December, when it hosts several events of the prestigious FIS Alpine Ski World Cup, often just called the FIS World Cup.
During the event, you don’t have to have pro-level ski skills to watch the world’s top competitors charge down legendary slopes (sometimes from just a few feet away) while you soak in the electric, festive atmosphere. But attending the FIS World Cup in Val d’Isère isn’t just about spectating. It’s an immersive experience that combines the thrill of world-class competition with the elegance of France’s alpine style and après-ski indulgence.
From securing the best viewing spots to knowing where to head for the top après-ski experiences, here’s what to know if you’re thinking about planning a ski trip that combines adrenaline-pumping competition and classic European ski culture.
Val d’Isère’s best FIS World Cup viewing spots
The bottom of the race course offers excellent FIS World Cup views for the lowest price. Photo: Katie Botwin
The Val d’Isère Ski World Cup isn’t just about witnessing fast, fearless athletes: it’s about sharing the excitement and energy of the crowd as you share the success and failures of the best skiers in the world. So to truly enjoy the experience, you’ll want to be in the heart of the action.
There are several prime viewing spots for the races, only some of which have a fee. You only need a ticket to access select viewing areas, but you can see the races from around the resort without paying.
The Finish Line of the Face de Bellevarde
Between Val d’Isère and Tignes (a connected resort with which it shares a ski pass to create Tignes-Val d’Isère), there are more than 150 trails for all ability levels. But the Face de Bellevarde is the slope to know, as the iconic run is the stage for some of the most thrilling events of the FIS World Cup in France. The best way to feel the raw intensity of the races is to get as close to the finish line as possible. You’ll be right there as racers hurtle toward the line, pushing the limits of speed and skill. Deafening cheers will bring each gravity-defying turn to a head until athletes cross the finish line. It’s standing room only, and the least expensive option, at 10 euros (about $10) per day.
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Free slopeside viewing areas
If you’re after a more relaxed experience, several free viewing areas around the resort offer a fantastic view of the course. If you hike up above the finish line (or ski down), you’ll be able to see the racers in various stages of competition. You need a ski lift ticket to access the lifts, but there’s no extra fee to just hang out and watch the FIS events from afar if you’re skiing at the resort. Watching from just above the start line is a popular spot.
VIP Access
For those seeking a more exclusive and luxurious experience, consider purchasing VIP access to the event. With the 150 euro (about $159) basic VIP ticket, you get access to prime viewing spots, access to exclusive lounges where you can mix with VIPs and top athletes, and unlimited beer, wine, and soft drinks. But if you’re really looking to watch the FIS World Cup in style, VIP package levels go up to 19,000 euros (about $20,100) for a private space that can hold 40 people.
Après-ski during the FIS World Cup
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After the races – and sometimes during – it’s time for après-ski. Val d’Isère’s après-ski scene is legendary, and for good reason. It’s not just just about the drinks, but also the atmosphere, the music, and the perfect blend of elevated French après-ski culture (think: quality food and drink), mixed with plenty of skiers looking to party. Whether you’re celebrating with fellow fans or rubbing shoulders with pros, these are the places to be.
La Folie Douce
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For a high-end, European discotheque après experience, make your way to La Folie Douce. The on-mountain venue offers stunning views with an infectious energy and a party atmosphere unlike anywhere else at the resort. Expect cocktails and champagne with DJs, live performances, and dancers. It’s an après-ski experience that’s as much about traditional après-ski as it is the actual party. Pro tip: Drink a lot of water before you go, because the drinks are known to be strong (and sometimes don’t stop coming).
Le Coin des Amis
In the middle of the village, Coin des Amis Bar is a vibrant après-ski spot with a casual vibe compared to sit-down restaurants. It’s very laid-back and an ideal place to walk up and grab a drink, chat with friends, and enjoy music without committing to staying for hours or having full table service. It’s a good spot from which to appreciate the old-world charm of the surrounding buildings while you relax over a drink or two.
Café Bellevarde
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For those looking to soak in a more traditional après-ski atmosphere, Café Bellevarde offers a cozy, rustic setting with wooden tables, deckside dining, and a menu of classics like French confit de boeuf and charcuterie boards. It’s also on the hill, close to the top of the Olympic Cable Car. You may want to reserve a table, as it’s a popular spot to unwind with a drink while taking in the mountain views.
Where to stay during the Val d’Isère FIS World Cup events
The town of Val d’Isère at night. Photo: ventdusud/Shutterstock
For guests looking for a front-row seat to all the Ski World Cup action, Club Med Val d’Isère has excellent proximity to both the slopes and the excitement of the various associated events. It’s ski-in, ski-out, so guests have easy access to lifts while also being close enough to run back to the room or change their boots between races. It’s a great choice for people who hate long walks in ski boots or don’t want to wait for ski shuttle transfers.
It’s an all-inclusive ski resort, so rates include dining, entertainment, and daily après-ski hours. It’s not cheap, with a starting winter rate around $850 per night. But that includes some otherwise-pricey perks, like daily ski lessons, lift tickets, and guided snowshoe hikes to a yurt for après-ski drinks and snacks.
Club Med Val d’Isère: La Legettaz, 73150 Val-d’Isère, France
Club Med Val d’Isère is as close to the slopes as you can get without sleeping on snow. Photo: Katie Botwin
For a lower-cost place to store your skis at night, consider Hôtel les Lorès. It’s a super-simple hotel just steps from the center of the village with a backpacker-hostel-meets-Swiss-chalet vibe. The rooms are fairly unadorned, but they all have private bathrooms, and there’s an on-site restaurant for when you don’t feel like leaving again after a lively day on the hill. Better still, rooms start as low as 145 euros (about $149) per night in the winter.
Hôtel les Lorès: Les Lorès, 498 Av. du Prariond, 73150 Val-d’Isère, France
If you’re traveling with a big group, the cost of separate rooms may add up pretty quickly. In that case, you may be better off renting an apartment. Les Equinoxes has several different apartment types, ranging from small five-person apartments to sprawling four-room options. They’re priced about the same as Club Med, and aren’t within walking distance to the mountain. But you get a lot more space than in a standard hotel, which may make it a good fit for bigger groups hoping to catch the FIS World Cup in France.
Les Equinoxes: 71 Rue des Étroits, 73150 Val-d’Isère, France
Must-dos during winter in Val d’Isère
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Val d’Isère is more than just a race venue – it’s one of the biggest resorts in France, and has a long history as a winter destination, for skiing or not.
For most people, skiing or snowboarding will be at the top of their to-do lists. The combined resorts are known as the Tignes-Val d’Isère ski area, but it’s also known by its old name: the Espace Killy Ski Area, named for a legendary French alpine skier who grew up in Val d’Isère and won three gold medals at the 1968 Winter Olympics. Combined, skiers have access to more than 186 miles of downhill trails, so it’s plenty to fill a week of skiing. Adult lift tickets start at 50 euros (about $52) and get progressively cheaper as you add more days, so it’s much more affordable than skiing at an equally large resort in North America.
Dog sledding is available just a quick drive away. Photo: SandraKoroleva94/Shutterstock
If skiing isn’t your jam – or even if it is – you may want to set aside one day to try ice climbing. At the entrance of Val d’Isère sits La Faille icefall, illuminated with floodlights each evening. Val d’Isère Mountain Guides offers half-day guided lessons starting at 150 euros (or about $159) per person. Classes include use of crampons and ice axes, and lessons on how to try your hand at the sporty ski alternative.
If you’ve never done it before, dog sledding can be a fun activity, especially for animal lovers who will enjoy spending time with the dogs as much as the actual ride. Evolution 2 offers short dog-mushing tours in Vallée du Manchet, just a few minutes from the ski village. It’s 150 euros for up to two people in a sled pulled by high-energy pointers bred specifically for their mushing skills. Even if you’ve done it before, spending time with the sled dogs while taking in the landscapes will be an unforgettable vacation moment.
Val d’Isére is the most popular FIS World Cup event in France
Racers at the Critérium de la Première Neige FIS World Cup in France. Photo: Katie Botwin
Val d’Isère isn’t the only place to catch events of the FIS World Cup, as competitions are held across the world, including in Canada and the US. But in France, there’s no better place to watch athletes from around the world push the bounds of speed, including US Olympians like Mikaela Shiffrin. And since ski trips in Europe are known for being far more affordable than those in North America – and the après-ski culture everywhere in the Alps is wildly more exciting than than in North America – it’s not surprising that Val d’Isère’s FIS World Cup events are getting more and more popular with American skiers. If you’re looking for an ideal mix of world-class competition, exceptional slopes, luxurious accommodations, and vibrant après-ski culture, Val d’Isère could be a strong contender for your next ski week trip. 