How to See All of Genoa’s Highlights on a One-Day Walking Tour

To get to the town center from Genoa’s Cruise Terminal (Stazioni Marittime), you’ll have to walk for around 20 minutes along a busy, noisy, and, frankly, crummy road. The road is safe, but it certainly doesn’t make a charming introduction to what is otherwise a lovely city.

Once you’ve reached the city center, however, walking around Genoa is pleasant. The narrow and picturesque streets of the historic center are lined with independent businesses and mostly reserved for pedestrians. Even Via XX Settembre, the city’s main thoroughfare, and a busy street open to traffic, makes for a very nice stroll.

For the purpose of this walking tour, I used Genoa’s Cruise Terminal as the starting and ending point, but if you’re not a cruise traveler, you may pick up the tour at any point on this itinerary.

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Porto Antico (the Old Port) is home to four main sights: the Genoa Aquarium, the Biosphere, the Neptune, and Palazzo San Giorgio. Only two of them are worth visiting.

While it is much praised, the Genoa Aquarium, one of the largest in Europe and the city’s number-one attraction, isn’t really worth your time and money. The infrastructure is very tired, the signage not kept up to date, and the animals look very much trapped in small tanks. The place has an air of sadness that we could all do without.

The Biosphere, part of the aquarium but requiring a separate ticket, is a disappointment, too. While the glass spherical exterior looks futuristic and appealing, inside the tropical bubble, there’s not much to write home about. It’s best seen from afar, which you can very much do from the quays of Porto Antico.

The Neptune, moored in Porto Antico, is a replica of a galleon that was built in 1985 for Roman Polanski’s movie Pirates. The ship is an impressive sight that deserves a stop and a few pictures. For $6.25 (€6) in cash, you can even hop on board.

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Less than five minutes on foot from the Neptune is Palazzo San Giorgio, easily recognizable thanks to its colorful frescoed exterior walls. While the initial structure dates back to the thirteenth century, what you see today, including the frescoes, is the result of significant sixteenth-century renovations, when the palace housed a bank. (Although it is worth noting that the paintings were refreshed in 1992.) Today, Palazzo San Giorgio is the seat of the Western Ligurian Sea Port System Authority, and can only be visited on a handful of days every year. Admire it from the outside.

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The San Lorenzo Cathedral, also known as the Genoa Cathedral, is located in the historic center, just a few minutes’ walk from Palazzo San Giorgio, and is unmissable thanks to its black-and-white striped exterior.

Built in the eleventh century, it is the most important church in the city. Access to the cathedral is free but, unless you want to worship, make sure you wait until mass is over before you go in to take a peek. Once inside, where the black-and-white stripes continue, look for the very unusual replica of a bomb in the aisle of the nave. On February 9, 1941, the cathedral was targeted by the Allies but the bomb that went though the edifice’s roof never detonated. The display is meant to remember the grace that was given to the cathedral on that day.

In the cathedral’s crypt is the Treasure Museum of San Lorenzo Cathedral, where you can admire religious relics, art, and furnishings, including the Sacro Catino said to be the Holy Grail. Entry to the crypt costs $5.15 (5€)

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In the twelveth century, protective walls were built around the city of Genoa. Three gates marked the points of entry and exit of the city: Porta Aurea, Porta di Santa Fede (today known as Porta dei Vacca), and Porta Soprana. Only the last two remain standing today after substantial renovation work in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Porta Soprana, like Porta dei Vacca, consists of two crenulated towers in between which stands a tall arch. Inscribed near Porta Soprana’s arch, passers-by can read: “I am guarded by soldiers, surrounded by beautiful walls and with my value, I cast away the darts of the enemies. If you bring peace, you may approach this gate; if you seek war, you shall return sad and beaten”. Porta Soprana is only seven minutes away from San Lorenzo Cathedral.

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Piazza de Ferrari is the beating heart of Genoa and marks the transition between the historic center and the more modern part of the city. The immense pedestrian square, where stands an impressive fountain, is surrounded by gorgeous edifices, including three palaces and the city’s opera house. Take a seat around the fountain and admire your surroundings before making your way to Via XX Settembre, Geona’s main thoroughfare.

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The wide sidewalks on Via XX Settembre, made of intricate mosaics and covered by porticoes, make you forget you’re walking down a busy commercial street. Take the time to go in and out of the stores and markets, and admire the impressive buildings that make up this very special street. You’ll soon reach the magnificent nineteenth-century Ponte Monumentale that passes above the street. Continue walking until you can see the remarkable facade of the Palazzo dei Giganti, then cross the street to reach the other side and walk back slowly towards Piazza de Ferrari and the historic Center.

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Back in the historic center, just five minutes on foot from Piazza Ferrari, is Pietro Romanengo, a confectionery shop that has been run by the same family since 1780. The carved stone facade and the gorgeous display window are impressive, but nothing compares to what’s going on inside: frescoed walls and ceilings, exquisite wooden and glass display cases, and a huge variety of old-fashioned treats. While the traditional confections for sale are pricey, a little chocolate treat from Pietro Romanengo makes for a great souvenir.

A few minutes of meandering around the narrow streets of the historic center will take you to Pestobene, where you can try some delicious artisan-made pesto. The small store is easily recognizable thanks to its automated mortar and pestle that sits in the window. The automaton continuously grinds basil leaves, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil, and Parmigiano Reggiano to make the world-famous local specialty: Genovese pesto.

If you’re hungry for something a little more substantial, keep an eye out for the long lines that form around the local focaccerias, and join the queue. The focaccerias’ offerings are not only varied and delicious, but portions are usually large and the price is right for a fantastic lunch on the go.

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Visiting Genoa’s Lighthouse (Lanterna di Genoa) will add significant mileage to you walking tour. The lighthouse is 50 minutes from the city center and 30 minutes from the Cruise Terminal, all on a busy, noisy road. But it’s worth the effort.

Genoa’s Lighthouse, dating back to 1543, is the symbol of the city, therefore you’d be remiss to pass on it. With a height of 252 feet, it is the tallest lighthouse in the Mediterranean and the second-tallest in Europe. For $8.50 (€8), you can climb the 172 steps to the first floor of the lighthouse and take in the panoramic views of the busy port and the city. Your ticket also gives you access to the Open Air Museum and the seventeenth-century fortifications which are at the foot of the lighthouse.