In Scuol, Switzerland, People Pay $70 to Sip Water. Here's Why.

The Inn River runs through Scuol, Switzerland. Photo: Vera Marakova/Shutterstock

My guide for the day was Sabina Streiter, a certified Swiss Water Sommelier. Yes, you read that right: a water sommelier. Her world of water is a revelation, challenging the notion that water is just water. “The people of this region have been savoring their mineral-rich waters since 1369,” Streiter shared with me. “Healing waters have been used since ancient times to promote health and prevent, alleviate, or cure certain ailments, depending on the type of healing water.” She’s passionate about the region’s water and makes drinking it part of her personal wellness routine.

The town’s history as a tourism destination goes back to the mid-to-late 1800s when the idea of water’s healing properties became en vogue as a wellness trend with affluent travelers. In Scoul, Switzerland, the waters are known locally as aua forta. It means “strong water” in Romansh, a local language spoken exclusively in this part of the country. And strong it is. Each sip delivers a unique, mineral-rich taste — sometimes sharp and bracing, other times smoother and more mellow, depending on the spring. The magnesium-rich sources have a slightly bitter, earthy flavor, while the effervescent, bubbling springs offer a bright, crisp taste, almost reminiscent of seltzer.

A public fountain in Scuol, Switzerland. Photo: gab90/Shutterstock

During my visit, Streiter led me through the multi-step art of tasting, teaching me to observe the color, smell the aroma, and savor the taste. The process revealed new levels of complexity in something I once thought was simple: water.

Many locals believe the water in Scuol has significant health benefits. While a direct link between Scuol’s water and health benefits hasn’t been scientifically proven, Streiter says she believes that ingesting minerals like magnesium, calcium, and sulfates – all of which are in Scuol’s waters – can help with optimal digestion and gut health.

The writer during her Swiss water tasting experience. Photo: Olivia Liveng

Before I arrived, I’d been struggling with a persistent stomach issue (think: fire-breathing dragon in my gut) that no amount of Tylenol alleviated. I was more than curious to see if the claims held up.

A water tasting is a bit like a wine walk. Our five-person tour group, led by Streiter, meandered through the charming cobblestoned streets of Scoul, visiting a series of springs, each offering a distinct experience. One stop was at a well in the heart of town. It was a lively spot where locals have gathered for centuries to fill jugs and catch up on the latest gossip, acting as a gathering spot that just happens to have crisp, lightly fizzy, and refreshing water on tap. We then strolled further to a quieter spring at the edge of town, where neighbors once met to collect smooth, iron-rich water with a slightly savory taste, said to be beneficial for digestion. We also explored one of the town’s modern-day spas, where the water is used for both relaxation and health benefits, showing how the enduring tradition has made its way into multiple facets of life in Scuol.

Each sip revealed more about the ancient rock formations and timeless beliefs that have attracted travelers here for centuries. At around 60 Swiss francs (about $70) for a two-hour experience, the tour isn’t cheap. But it gave me a unique understanding of why these springs hold such deep meaning for the people of Graubünden, and revealed a layer of depth in something I normally would take for granted.

I can’t say for sure what caused it, but surprisingly, after a day spent sampling the famed waters, my stomach felt noticeably better. Maybe there’s something to the water’s age-old reputation after all.

Two ibex in Switzerland. Photo: Rocchas/Shutterstock

People visit Scuol not just for the mineral springs, but for everything the area offers year-round. In winter, it’s popular for skiing and snowboarding, and in the warmer months, the alpine trails draw hikers and mountain bikers, with views stretching across the valleys. The mineral-rich thermal baths are another draw, with many locals and visitors believing in their health benefits.

The Bogn Engiadina is a thermal bath complex popular with visitors seeking relaxation and rejuvenation. Bathers can soak in mineral-rich indoor and outdoor pools filled with water drawn from local springs or make use of steam baths, saunas, and even a Roman bath area (akin to a Nordic spa, with guests alternating between hot and cold temperatures on a set time cycle).

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For those who appreciate history and charm, the Hotel Belvédère is a must-visit. Established in the late 19th century, the well-known hotel has an Art Nouveau design and stunning views of the Engadine Dolomites. If you’re looking for a more affordable but equally charming option, consider the Hotel Engiadina, conveniently within walking distance of Scuol’s restaurants and shops.

Travelers who prefer to be active on vacation – or perhaps just want some excellent views – may want to head to the nearby Swiss National Park. It’s the oldest national park in the Alps and Switzerland’s largest nature reserve. It has about 50 miles of hiking trails and has been largely untouched by humans for the past century. If you’re lucky, you may see ibex while hiking in the park’s Val Trupchun, or Trupchun Valley.

The ruins of Steinsberg Castle. Photo: SusanD/Shutterstock

While the region’s famous water is the main draw for most visitors, the area around Scoul, called the Lower Engadine, offers more to do. Visitors can wander through charming alpine villages like Ardez, where sgraffito-etched houses look much as they did in the 16th century. Walking up the hillside to the ruins of Steinsberg Castle is a popular way to spend an afternoon. And about 30 minutes away by car is Brail, a tiny town with only 100 residents – and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Make reservations as far in advance as your plans allow to dine at Vivanda, especially if you want to sit at the underground chef’s table.

If you’re looking to extend your adventure, consider an overnight train trip to Arosa, a charming alpine town best reached by the Bernina Express from Chur, the capital of Graubünden and Switzerland’s oldest city. This scenic route gives you breathtaking views as it crosses the Langwieser Viaduct and the Gründjitobel Viadukt. With panoramic views of deep valleys and the towering peaks of the Albula Range, you’ll definitely want a window seat on this trip.

Arosa’s calm setting and access to skiing, winter hiking, and snowshoeing make it a favorite for outdoor enthusiasts. For those seeking a quiet retreat, the five-star Tschuggen Grand Hotel is a popular splurge known for its luxury wellness focus. The hotel’s floor-to-ceiling lobby windows offer beautiful views of the Schanfigg Valley and (if you have a clear day) the Weisshorn mountain peak in the distance. Guests can unwind in the mineral-rich spa waters while gazing out at the snow-capped peaks and lush forests.

 

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Speaking of luxury: I could have spent an entire day in the resort’s spa, which has hydrotherapy pools, many detox-focused therapies, and a menu of more than 30 pages of various standard and unique spa treatments. I left feeling more pampered (and wrinkled) than I’ve been in a long time. Though Arosa may be small, its secluded charm and high-end comforts make it the perfect spot to to splurge on a few relaxing days in crisp, alpine air.

Photo: Asdrubal Costa/Shutterstock

Maybe it’s the waters. Maybe it’s the mountains. Or maybe it’s just that Graubünden feels like it’s been there forever, somehow unfazed by the outside world. As Sabina put it, “The physical effect of the mineral waters is in the foreground, but there’s a deep emotional connection, too. Many locals who no longer live here still return to fill up crates of their favorite mineral water and take it with them. It’s home.”

After a day of tasting its springs and soaking in the history, I got it. There’s a quiet appeal to Scuol that doesn’t need to shout to make itself known. I felt like I’d be pulled into a slow, more rhythm by Graubünden’s mineral-rich springs and rugged landscapes, letting me feel grounded in a place as unpretentious as it is timeless.