Photo: Cincinnati Reds

Where to Play, Eat, and Stay in Cincinnati If You Love Baseball, Bourbon, Beer, and More

Insider Guides
by John Gonzalez Apr 16, 2024

Imagine the yellow brick road is the Ohio River, and it leads to Cincinnati, Ohio. On one side we have America’s oldest professional baseball team, the Cincinnati Reds, as well as trendy restaurants and a vibrant arts community. On the other side, we have the Kentucky Bourbon Trail and more fantastic restaurants and bars, as well as a history of organized gambling, casinos, and strip clubs.

Welcome to this Midwest region that sparkles with colorful murals, James Beard-nominated chefs, a passion for the Reds, a love for the arts, award-winning craft breweries, creative cocktails, and a network of bourbon destinations for those who like it neat or on the rocks. Here’s why now is a perfect time to visit Cincinnati.

Things to do Cincinnati

The B-Line

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Did you know that 95 percent of the world’s bourbon is made in Kentucky? That‘s why the Covington area — just over the Ohio River and across from Cincinnati — is known as the “Official Gateway to the Kentucky Bourbon Trail.” To help you explore the area, there’s a self-guided passport program known as The B-Line.

The B-Line includes seven Kentucky Bourbon Trail craft bourbon distilleries, nine bourbon-centric bars (each with at least 100 different bourbons), and nine restaurants (each with at least 50 bourbons and at least one bourbon-infused menu item). Check in at each stop and get a stamp to win some cool swag.

My favorite stop: The Old Kentucky Bourbon Bar on Covington’s Main Street, which serves a Mystery Whiskey Wheel of shots for $5 on Wednesday nights. You might get lucky to sample a rare find from its collection of 1,000 whiskeys, which includes 700 bourbons.

The B-Line: 50 E. River Center Blvd.. Suite 1100, Covington, KY 41011

Great American Ballpark

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

This beautiful ballpark on the banks of the Ohio River was erected in 2003, replacing the old Riverfront Stadium and paving the way for today’s modern stadium with the amenities that today’s fans expect. I was fortunate to visit on Opening Day 2024, and the stadium still maintains its distinct charm, with great views of the game and cityscape, an incredible video scoreboard, and more than 50 beers on tap, including local favorites like Rhinegeist’s Homer IPA and Moerlein’s Lager.

You can also sample another Cincinnati tradition at the ballpark: Skyline Chili. I recommend the 3-Way — steamed spaghetti covered with Skyline’s secret-recipe chili and topped with a mound of shredded cheddar cheese — or the famous Coney Dogs, which also come topped with loads of cheddar. That’s what they do in Cincinnati. Pro tip for families: All-You-Can-Eat Stands offer unlimited sodas, popcorn, peanuts, chips, and five hot dogs for just $25 per person in 2024.

Great American Ballpark: 100 Joe Nuxhall Way, Cincinnati, OH 45202

Cincinnati Reds Hall of Fame & Museum

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

The Cincinnati Reds lay claim to being the first professional baseball team in the US, starting as the Cincinnati Red Stockings in 1869. They were the first team to pay players, which means they were so good that they went 57-0 that inaugural season. They were also charter members of the National League when it formed in 1876 but were kicked out for almost a decade for selling beer and having games on Sundays.

You can learn more about the team’s history inside the Cincinnati Reds Hall of Fame & Museum, which is the largest team museum in Major League Baseball at 16,000 square feet. It houses historical, interactive, and educational exhibits, highlighting the rich and storied tradition of the Reds. Any fan of the Big Red Machine (World Series titles in 1975 & 1976) will marvel at the life-size statues of their childhood heroes.

Inside the museum, which shares an address with the Great American Ballpark, you’ll also find baseballs representing 4,256 hits by Hall of Fame member Pete Rose, baseball bats used by the team’s legendary home-run hitters such as Johnny Bench and George Foster, and interactive displays where you can call a game on radio or TV. Plus, Great American Ballpark tours are available. It’s worth the price of admission for any baseball fan.

Cincinnati Reds Hall of Fame & Museum: 100 Joe Nuxhall Way, Cincinnati, OH 45202

The Banks Cincy

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Photo: Christian Hinkle/Shutterstock

The Cincinnati Reds and Cincinnati Bengals stadiums bookend an area called The Banks. It’s adjacent to Smale Riverfront Park, which is recognized as one of the best river walks in the country and offers a beautiful view of the famed Roebling Suspension Bridge (a precursor to the Brooklyn Bridge) along with a bevy of establishments for dining and meeting up with friends for pre- and post-game drinks.

I was a little cramped walking to Great American Ballpark with more than 46,000 fans trying to get to the game on Opening Day, but it was worth it. Along with a scenic view of the bridge that joins Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky, here you’ll find plenty of shopping, the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center, and Moerlein Lager House, which has a brewing history dating back to 1853 in Cincinnati’s famous Over-the-Rhine (OTR) neighborhood.

The Banks Cincy: 4 Beech Lane, Cincinnati, OH 45208

ArtWorks Mural Tour

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Whether it’s a self-guided tour or one led by a volunteer at ArtWorks, you’ll be in awe of the 300-plus public murals scattered throughout the city along historic streets. Since 2007, ArtWorks has created downtown-area monumental murals, all with the help of area students. As a one-time artist myself, I was inspired by the detail in these murals that speak of the city’s history. You’ll learn about Cincinnati’s beloved Fiona the hippo at her home in the Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical Garden. The mural depicts her at play while her mother, Bibi, keeps watch nearby. My favorite on the walking tour was “Cincinnati Toy Heritage,” which tells the legacy of Kenner Toys, a Cincinnati-based toy company founded in 1947, as it shows a Care Bear, C3PO, Strawberry Shortcake, and others.

ArtWorks Mural Tour: 2460 Gilbert Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45206

Queen City Underground Tour

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Hosted by American Legacy Tours, this walking tour provides a great overview of the city’s history and its OTR district. The well-preserved buildings of 19th-century Italianate architecture, which dominated the urban Cincinnati housing boom between 1860 and 1880, was home to a large number of German immigrants. A canal separated the city at the time, and the area was referred to as “over the Rhine.”

On the tour, you’ll dig deep into Cincinnati’s past and hear stories from a time when more than 130 saloons, bars, and beer gardens covered the district. I also got to descend below the city streets to explore underground lagering tunnels, which local breweries used at one time to hoist up barrels below. Today the area is home to craft breweries, trendy gastropubs, and stylish bars — plus, Findlay Market.

Queen City Underground Tour: 1332 Vine St., Cincinnati, OH 45202

Newport Gangster Tour

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Photo: CiEll/Shutterstock

This tour takes you over the Ohio River to Newport, Kentucky, which has a storied past as a Prohibition-era bootlegging capital and America’s first major gambling city. It was Vegas before Vegas. Also operated by American Legacy Tours, it begins at The Syndicate, where you’re transported to a time of gangsters, brothels, strip clubs, and casinos — all in one place. Celebrities hung out here, and local legends lived and died here. That history also preserved time-honored distilling traditions from bootlegging for future generations of bourbon makers.

Newport Gangster Tour: The Syndicate, 18 E. Fifth St., Newport, KY 41071

Where to eat and drink in Cincinnati

Findlay Market

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Located in OTR, which is known for its German heritage, Findlay Market opened in 1855 and is Ohio’s oldest continuously operating public market. It is a foodie lover’s paradise with more than 50 full-time merchants selling meat, fish, poultry, produce, flowers, cheese, deli, international foods, and more.

Everyone shops at Findlay Market — in fact, I bumped into James Beard-nominated chef Jose Salazar (of Cincinnati’s Mita’s restaurant) while in line at Sen by Kiki where they were freshly shucking oysters and serving up some of the best ceviche I’ve had outside of Mexico. Shout out to Chef Hideki Harada (also a James Beard-nominated chef) for making this one of my favorite stops on my recent trip.

Also at Findlay Market, I discovered the signature Bourbon Caramel banana pudding at Makers Bakers Co., which might be the world’s best. They had to drag me out of there, but only after grabbing a cinnamon roll drenched in vanilla icing to go.

Findlay Market: 1801 Race St., Cincinnati, OH 45202

Eckerlin Meats

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

While near Findlay Market, I also stopped at Eckerlin Meats, which has been in business since 1852. Sixth generation owner Josh Lillis introduced me to my first Goetta experience. What the heck is Goetta? Imagine a lof of beef and pork that’s grounded together with steel cut pinhead oats, onions, and distinct spices.

“Only in Cincinnati,” Lillis said. “Back in those days the Germans never threw anything out.” Today the local tradition continues with local dishes (sliders, omelets, etc.) and even a Goetta Day. If you ask me, it’s pretty tasty, once you get past the oats.

Eckerlin Meats: 1819 Elm St., Cincinnati, OH 45202

Somerset

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Located in OTR, Somerset features two bars — one in a glass-roofed conservatory and another in a cozy lounge with imported antique pieces that will intrigue the world traveler. Even though I love bourbon, I had to try the signature Ube Margarita, a heavenly, slightly sweet, purple-colored drink (thanks to the Ube yam) that just screamed “don’t stop at just one!”

Somerset: 139 E. McMicken St., Cincinnati, OH 45202

Nolia Kitchen

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Sometimes you’re not so sure if rave reviews for a new restaurant are all hype or truly one-of-a-kind. In the case of Chef Jeff Harris, a recent James Beard Award finalist for Best New Restaurant, it’s the latter. His take on New Orleans’ Ninth Ward cuisine is inspired by simplicity, creativity, and unexpected surprises.

I recommend the River Catfish (topped with crawfish, bathed in a rustic meunière sauce, and served on grits), but his menu is always changing, he said, drawing upon regional favorites from the South. One thing that won’t leave the menu is the skillet cornbread — a must-eat. Make reservations in advance.

Nolia Kitchen: 1405 Clay St., Cincinnati, OH 45202

Ghost Baby

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Housed in half-domed tunnels formerly used by a Cincinnati brewing company to lager its beer, Ghost Baby is one of the reasons OTR is such a cool destination. Difficult to find (search for a purple light above the doorway entrance), it has a speakeasy vibe and is located four stories under Vine Street. Frilly lamps dot the walls, and the dimly lit environment makes it a perfect space for live music and a smokey drink. The Ghost’s Favorite cocktail with Bulleit Bourbon is inspired by the Old Fashioned and Manhattan, and it comes smoked with cherry wood. The presentation alone wins you over before the drink kisses your lips.

Ghost Baby: 1311 Vine St., Cincinnati, OH 45202

Sugar n’ Spice Diner

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Have you ever had “wispy thin” pancakes? My first thought when they came to my table was to roll them up like a taquito and dip them in my maple syrup and butter. As advertised, these thin slices of fried batter are light, airy, and near perfection. The breakfast and lunch menu has changed little since it was established in 1941. And the OTR location is in a retro diner. Everyone leaves happy with a rubber duckie toy, which comes out in a huge tray so you can pick one to fit your personality.

Sugar n’ Spice Diner: 1311 1203 Sycamore St., Cincinnati, OH 45202

Maplewood Kitchen & Bar

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

What’s a California-style breakfast and lunch cafe? At Maplewood, it means avocado toast, cold-pressed juice, grass-fed butter, and locally roasted coffee. But the most popular item on the menu is the nationally famous lemon ricotta pancakes, which are extremely balanced and not overly sweet. I woke up dreaming of them the next day.

Maplewood Kitchen & Bar: 525 Race St., Cincinnati OH 45202

Lil’s Kitchen and Roebling Point Books & Coffee

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Known for its incredible sandwiches and outreach to the LGBTQ community, the motto behind this bookstore slash breakfast nook is “bridging books, beans, and being.” Lil’s Kitchen is located at Roebling Point Books & Coffee’s Dayton and Newport stores, but you’ll also find a Roebling Point Books location in Covington, Kentucky, a few steps from the Roebling Suspension Bridge. As for sandwiches, The Lillian is a must — lox, chive spread, capers, red onion, dill, and everything seasoning on a challah roll. The menu also features pastries, smoothies, toasts, and egg and cheese sandwiches.

Lil’s Kitchen and Roebling Point Books & Coffee: 301 Sixth Ave., Dayton, KY 41074

Smoke Justis

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Named after a legendary local pitcher, this restaurant and bourbon bar is in the Roebling Point neighborhood of Covington, near Roebling Bridge. Along with lip-smacking good wings and BBQ, the impressive bar has one of the largest bourbon collections in the region. You can do a tasting, attend special events, or hang out a few short steps from the Ohio River. Pro tip: Park here for a Reds game, walk over the bridge, and enjoy a pre- or post-game meal.

(Walter “Smoke” Justis is in the Cooperstown Hall of Fame for throwing four no-hitters in the minor leagues. He played briefly for the Detroit Tigers but settled in as a player for the Covington Blue Sox in the old Federal League.)

Smoke Justis: 302 Court St., Covington, KY 41011

Wenzel Whiskey

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Have you ever tried a “bourbon blending” experience? Uniquely personal and tons of fun, blending allows customers with any level of expertise to blend bourbons with a trained professional. Guests are able to pull (or “thieve”) bourbon directly from various barrels sourced from distilleries across the US and blend them together to craft something fitting their budget and palate preferences.

Wenzel Whiskey: 15 Tobacco Alley, Covington, KY 41011

Aperture

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Chef Jordan Anthony-Brown’s long-awaited Aperture restaurant opened its doors at the tail end of 2023. The menu is heavily influenced by traditions of the broader Mediterranean region — Southern France, Italy, Greece, and Levant, which means ingredients such as ras el hanout, tahini and harissa find their way to this seasonal menu of simple pastas, proteins, and plenty of veggies. For example, the lamb shoulder is flavored with a smoky and peppery harissa seasoning and served with a crispy Persian rice called tahdig. The restaurant also offers an elevated cocktail menu. My dining partner loved the “I’m Her,” a version of a Manhattan with a little pomegranate and a special vermouth from the Piedmont region of Italy.

Aperture: 900 E. McMillan St., Cincinnati, OH 45206

Revival Vintage Bottle Shop

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Ever wonder what a 1980s bottle of Maker’s Mark tastes like versus a 1990s bottle? At Revival in downtown Covington, Kentucky, bourbon enthusiasts and newcomers can experience a tasting bar and bottle shop that merges more than a century of bourbon history into a one-of-a-kind experience. One of the largest vintage spirits collections in the country, Revival is the passion project of Brad “Dusty” Bonds who carefully curates a collection of rare and vintage bottles and invites visitors to sample some pretty interesting bourbons.

Revival Vintage Bottle Shop: 5 E 8th St, Covington, KY 41011

Lisse Steakhuis

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Lisse Steakhuis serves the best of both worlds: steak and drinks. The Dutch-American restaurant is named in tribute to owner Hans Philippo’s hometown of Lisse, Holland, and the emphasis is on fresh and local. The beef is sourced solely from Philippo’s family-run Holland Farms in Williamstown, Kentucky, which integrates vertical farming and sustainability. The grass-fed beef is prime, Black Angus, dry-aged for 28-40 days. The restaurant has also recently incorporated Wagyu beef.

All this means that everything on the menu is perfection, from the meatball to the Beef Wellington. My curated five-course meal was a whammy kiss to the senses, especially when the first pairing kicked it off with a beet salad paired with an “off-beet” whiskey sour — definitely go for drink pairings if you’re looking to have a magical night.

Lisse Steakhuis: 530 Main St., Covington, KY 41011

Samuel Adams Cincinnati Taproom

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Did you know that Sam Adams craft beer was born in Cincinnati? As the story goes, owner/brewer Jim Koch, a native of Cincinnati, approached his father back in 1984 about an idea to create a uniquely American beer that would take on popular imports. The recipe for Boston Lager came from a family recipe. In 1997, Koch purchased the Hudepohl-Schoenling brewery on Central Parkway (the original canal that became OTR), where today the Samuel Adams Cincinnati Brewery produces Sam Adams beers.

Samuel Adams Cincinnati Taproom: 1727 Logan St, Cincinnati, OH 45202

Braxton Brewing Company

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

With four locations, including one downtown in the heart of Pendleton/OTR, this is a great spot to catch the big game, enjoy a cocktail, or check out one of the 24 rotating beers on tap. The original location in Covington (which opened in 2015) sports a massive and impressive rooftop bar.

But you don’t have to wait long to taste the famous “Garage Beer” lager (4% ABV) if you’re flying into Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky International Airport (CVG). There, you’ll find a restaurant/bar that serves about 12 different beers, including a sampler flight. Trust me, the Garage Beer is an easy one to throw back any time of the day. Oh, and make sure to try Storm, a cream ale with malty notes and subtle corn flavors. It’s one of the best I’ve ever tried.

Braxton Brewing Company: 27 W. 7th St., Covington, KY 41011

Where to stay in Cincinnati

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

Over the years, I’ve stayed at a variety of hotels in downtown Cincinnati and Covington, Kentucky, whether going to Reds games or in town for a bourbon tour. You’ll find a variety of places to fit your budget and needs with hotels, bed and breakfasts, vacation rentals, and campgrounds in the area.

One standout hotel is the 21c Museum Hotel, situated in the heart of downtown Cincinnati, which means that it’s walking distance to the major sporting venues, as well as OTR. The 21c Museum Hotel is a multi-venue contemporary art museum, an award-winning 156-room boutique hotel, and home of Metropole restaurant. The 21c features changing art exhibits, a seasonal rooftop deck, a spa, and an iconic yellow penguin mascot. It’s also adjacent to the Contemporary Arts Center.

Oh, and just to make sure you feel immediately welcomed, ask about the free bourbon tasting for guests when you check in at the front desk. It’s a nice touch to a perfect stay.

21c Museum Hotel: 609 Walnut St., Cincinnati, OH 45202

How to get around Cincinnati

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Photo: John D. Gonzalez

In addition to all the typical ways to get around a city, the Connector streetcar is a fun and free way to navigate downtown Cincinnati on a 3.6-mile loop that spans from OTR to The Banks. All you have to do is hop on and hop off at select areas, such as the Great American Ballpark, downtown hotels, Hard Rock Casino, and others. The Connector Streetcar is a fully electric mode of transportation, so it’s an environmentally friendly way to explore Cincinnati. It operates 365 days a year and follows a core schedule each day, with extended service hours for select events. See the map here.

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