Pink headscarf, Pakistan

Photo: Schantzilla

Tips from Matador’s destination expert on Pakistan on how to make your trip a smooth one.
1. Don’t… expect to understand Pakistani English

Some Pakistanis speak English fluently, but most have a distinctly local flair to their speech.

Locals who’ve learned English solely from grammar books and flawed pronunciation drills may wonder what funny language you’re speaking.

Do… learn basic phrases in Urdu

While only about 10% of the population speaks Urdu as a native language, many more use it as a trade language. I’ve found that pulling out even basic Urdu phrases can result in lower prices and invitations for chai.

Truck at Gulshan Chaurangi

Photo: HovaHe

The proper linguistic skills can even weasel you out of speeding tickets.

2. Don’t… travel by day during Ramadan

Long trips during the Muslim month of Ramadan are brutal. Most people are fasting, or at least pretending to fast, and it’s rude to eat, drink, or smoke in public. This includes on a bus, train, or plane.

I was once on a bus during Ramadan that didn’t stop for a bathroom break until we’d been driving eight hours straight.

Do… go by night

If the trip you’d like to take is longer than you can go without water or a toilet, travel from sunset to sunrise.

Passengers are in a festive mood after nightfall, and there’s a collective feeling of relief that everyone can eat and drink at will. Bring some snacks to pass around.

3. Don’t… fill up on the first course

Often when you visit a Pakistani house for a meal, you’ll be served an array of fried appetizers, meats, cookies, and sweets. This is not the main meal, even if there are a dozen dishes.

If there isn’t bread or rice on the table, it’s probably just a starter.

Stacks of roti, Pakistan

Photo: Umair Mohsin

Do… budget your stomach space

Save room for the main course and dessert.

This is particularly important during Ramadan, when locals host iftar parties to break the fast.

Iftar is a special meal eaten when the sun goes down, but almost immediately after it dinner is served, which in turn is followed by a sweet dish.

4. Don’t… assume “no” means “no”

In Urdu it’s polite to say “no thanks” (Nahin, shukriya) at least once before accepting something. If you offer something to a local, always ask at least three times.

Do… make it clear when you really mean “no”

When you genuinely don’t want something, like a seventh serving of biryani, it can be hard to communicate it.

Put your hands over your heart in a gesture of sincere thanks while saying, “Bas, shukriya,” — No more, thank you.

5. Don’t… visit city monuments on Sundays

Important monuments and shrines are swarmed by locals on Sunday afternoons. Pakistani tickets usually cost just 10 to 20 rupees, so many families head to forts or parks for picnics on their day off.

Lahore Museum

Photo: *_*

Do… go on a weekday morning

Foreigner tickets to those same forts and parks, like Lahore Fort or Hiran Minar, will set you back 200 rupees, so go when you can have the place to yourself.

Between 10 and 11 AM is the best time to arrive, as there won’t be as many beggars and hawkers as there are in the afternoon. If you go earlier than 10, the gates might not be open yet.

6. Don’t… think you know what a “dance party” is

If a middle-aged man invites you to attend a late night “party,” this is what you’ll get: a bunch of men drinking, smoking, and gawking at a teenage dancing girl they’ve hired to entertain them.

Yes, female tourists may also be invited to such an event.

Do… cut it at a Pakistani wedding

Weddings here last for three days or more. The best day to attend a wedding is on mehndi (a day or two before the main ceremony), when there’s usually a high-energy bhangra dance party going on.

7. Don’t…wear shorts or tight clothing

You may see some local men wearing cargo shorts in posh areas of Islamabad, Karachi, or Lahore, but don’t assume you can follow suit.

Locals will give you the stare down, and showing skin outside certain neighborhoods will attract unwanted attention.

Showing off the shalwar kameez, Pakistan

Photo: Author

Do… try on local Pakistani dress

Pakistani shalwar kameez are quite comfortable, especially during Punjabi summers. You can buy these suits ready-made in malls or outdoor markets, or you can pick out cloth and get one made by a local tailor.

Men’s and women’s outfits have loose, baggy pants and long, tunic-style shirts.

Women also wear a matching dupatta to cover the head and chest. Think of a dupatta as a protective shield from wandering eyes.

8. Don’t… freak when the lights go out

Make the phrase “load shedding” a part of your vocabulary. In almost every part of the country there are frequent, government-controlled power cuts.

Power usually goes out on the hour and for an hour at a time. There may or may not be a schedule, and depending where you are you might only have juice for 12 hours out of 24.

Do… bring a flashlight

Keep a small one on you and have some matches and candles in your bag. When booking a hotel, ask if the property has generator or UPS backup.

9. Don’t… fly between Islamabad and the Northern Areas

Flights are often canceled or at least delayed due to weather, and you might end up spending days or weeks in Islamabad waiting for the next available plane.

Karakoram Highway Karakul Lake, Xinjiang

Photo: DPerstin

Do… take the Karakoram Highway

The Karakoram Highway runs through the Indus River Valley and continues to the Chinese border at the Khunjerab Pass.

Air travelers miss out on the Karakoram’s cliffs, rocky beaches, and tiny chai shops set up near glacial waterfalls.

Community Connection

Trips has been leveraging the wisdom of Matador’s destination experts to compile advice similar to this on destinations around the world. See more at our What NOT to Do page.

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About The Author

Heather Carreiro

Heather is a secondary English teacher, travel writer and editor who has lived in Morocco and Pakistan. She enjoys jamming on the bass, haggling over saris in dusty markets and cross-country jumping on horseback. Currently she's a grad student attempting to wrap her tongue around Middle English, analyze South Asian literature and eat enough to make her Portuguese mother-in-law happy. Learn more on her blog at ExpatHeather.com.

  • joshua johnson

    Great list…although i have no immediate plans to visit Pakistan, your article intrigued me greatly.

  • http://rebeccakinsella.wordpress.com/ Rebecca

    love this piece and the layout of the article Heather!

    I think that the ‘ask three times rule’ applies in a few cultures, i’ve definitely noticed it with aussie and irish family too!

  • Arti

    Hehehe… loved the ‘load shedding’ reference. Aah.. fond memories of busting out the candles and playing antakshari. They probably call it something else in Pakistan.

  • http://www.maryandseansadventuresabroad.blogspot.com Mary R

    I really liked your article, Heather. I especially like how you focus on cultural aspects of being there, rather than just making a case for not visiting a certain “tourist” draw, as often these kinds of articles do.

    I completely want to ride in a rowdy festive bus at night during Ramadan now!

  • Fiona

    Arti, we still call it Antakshari in Pakistan….. Oh, how I LOVED to play that game, esp. when the lights went out and my sister and I would sing all night long outside on our ‘jhula’ :)

  • TimR

    Another great post; thanks for the tips. In Kathmandu I was surprised at how normally life seems to go on when the power’s out. I kinda liked the fact that a city could deal with it and not freak out a la some Hollywood disaster movie.

  • http://www.expatheather.com Heather Carreiro

    Antakshari – now that’s something I’ve never learned! How do you play it?

  • http://www.google.com Dan

    Amazing article and sounds like an amazing country…. you sound if you really had a lot of fun living there.

  • http://www.expatheather.com Heather Carreiro

    Totally! I was out to eat at a restaurant when Musharraf declared a “state of emergency” (ie martial law). Nobody budged. Everyone just kept enjoying their dinner and went on with things as normal. Imagine if that happened in the US?

  • http://www.expatheather.com Heather Carreiro

    There are so many lovely things to learn and discover in Pakistan. Most Americans think the hardest part about being there must have been the “terrorism” (which, yes it IS a real risk that you will be caught up in some random suicide bomb) but we found the hardest thing to deal with to be the electricity shortages and the heat. 120 degrees with no AC is not fun. You kind of end up living like a zombie if you can’t sleep through the power outages, but most tourists head to the Northern Areas where it you can be completely comfortable without AC during the summer months.

  • http://www.gomadnomad.com Stephen

    Awesome piece!

  • http://www.funanddiscover.com Balater

    Hi, I realy like your article, I am from Karachi-Pakistan, you are right regarding “If you offer something to a local, always ask at least three times. “, because mostly pakistani people are pretender, so you need to offer more then 2 times :)

  • http://www.expatheather.com Heather

    Thanks Balater! I think it is similar in a lot of other cultures. I always found it difficult to tell people when I actually was full or just didn’t want to eat something, like when people were offering me gulab jaman (which would send me into a hypoglycemic/low blood sugar crash in a matter of minutes) or more of a food that was just too spicy for me.

  • raza

    its like, u sing a song and the opponents will have to start the song from the last letter of your song! like, i sing, i wanna celebrate and live my life .. so the song which you’ll have to sing should be starting from ‘e’ .. this is in english .. we definitely do it in urdu!

  • Ali

    Hey Heather

    I am from Karachi Pakistan, your article makes Pakistan look like an amazing country which it really is. And looking at the positive comments of the people towards Pakistan due to your article has made me really happy. Thank you for that :-)

    May God Bless you

  • http://expatheather.com Heather

    Sounds like fun! I think I do remember people playing this game. We do a similar game in the US using the names of celebrities. Like if I say “Tom Cruise,” then the next person needs to think of a celebrity with a first name starting with “E” since that was the last letter of the name given.

  • http://expatheather.com Heather

    Thanks Ali! In my writing I always try to offer an alternative (and much more balanced) view of Pakistan than what most Americans get from the mainstream media. I’ve written over 200 articles about Pakistan that you can access from my blog’s Pakistan resource page:

    http://expatheather.com/pakistan

    All the best!

  • tam

    Hi Heather. Just loved reading this article and agree with joshua, though I have no plans to go to Pakistan, you make it sound fascinating :)

  • http://expatheather.com Heather

    So glad you enjoyed! I try to get Pakistan some more positive press. It’s definitely a fascinating place to live or travel to.

  • http://www.facebook.com/shariq91 ShariqH

    Salaam Heather! That was one heck of a piece miss. Just one little problem: it was too short :(
    I’d be glad if you’d be kind enough to join me on facebook. And if you ever come to Lahore, Pakistan, lemme know; it’d be a pleasure to show you around the city (if I don’t have exams like right now that is…)
    Much love! <3

  • http://expatheather.com Heather

    Thanks Shariq! My husband and I have been back in the US now for a year, but lately I’ve definitely been missing winter in Lahore.

  • samr

    great piece of work!!!!!!i am Pakistani have u visited islamabad????

  • http://expatheather.com Heather

    Hi Samr – glad you enjoyed the article. I lived in Lahore but I did visit Islamabad several times. It was always nice to drive the wide streets and walk in the city’s parks.

  • Dr.Asif Manzoor Raja

    Hi there…Lovely article regarding Pakistan.. Thumbs up

  • Taimoor

    Hey Heather. Nice little article. Bravo!
    I am a Pakistani-American born and raised in the states. Recently i have visited my homeland and discovered, much to my amazement, that the media has tarnished the reputation of my country. When i visited Pakistan, i loved it so much that i decided to stay here at least 3 months a year. My family belongs to Lahore and it truly houses some of the most hospitable people in the world.
    About the English part, it is true that most people here don’t understand my accent completely and sometimes misinterpret it. But! we have to give Pakistanis some appreciation for learning English. Its a good effort on their part to adopt another language as their official working language.
    Anyways, once again great job on the piece and i’m very happy to see someone paint a proper picture of Pakistan.
    Cheers!

  • rameez

    nope we call it antakshri as well.

  • Murtaza

    Nights in Ramadan also brings back memories of Night Cricket and “Pani Pala”.

    Heather, nice article to bring up few positive aspects of Pakistan.

    Thanks,

  • Ata

    Hi Heather,

    Great article!.

    Thanks for portraiting a positive image of my lovely country.

    Ata

  • Ferdi Hodler

    Dear Heather. thank u for your article which I read with great interest. As I am going to live in Pakistan it is important for me to know what to do and what not to do.. your indications are useful, but certainly not complete. I am an european muslima and I am going to marry a Pakistani. May I ask u a great favour, Heather ?. Do you know an european lady.. not too young.. living since years with a Pakistani husband in Pakistan. I would adore to become a penfriend to her. I speak and write german, french and english. I am looking forward to your answer and send u my warmest regards

  • http://expatheather.com Heather

    Hi Ferdi,

    Thanks for reading! Check out The Gori Wife Life blog (gori means white foreign woman) – http://thegoriwifelife.blogspot.com/

  • Subloke

     I just stumbled across this article and now I’m “homesick” for Pakistan!  I lived and worked as an expat in the Murree hills for 2 1/2 years 10 years ago and think of Pakistan (in a good way) almost daily.  All of your do’s and don’ts are right on the money and bring back happy memories (including a long bus ride during Ramadan — so hungry).  

  • Cynthia

    Hi heather! Just wanted to tell you that this article helped me on an essay SO much! I couldn’t find any accurate information on Pakistan until I visited this website. I really appreciate you for sharing your information about Pakistan :)

  • garcon

    One more, Don’t go to Pakistan :)

  • garcon

    One more, Don’t go to Pakistan :)

  • Madeeha

    Hi Heather! Its always nice to realize that some people still make an effort to look past the stereotypes and the media hype to the find some insight into the truth. Thank you for this very endearing article. As a Pakistani I agree with all your tips and am delighted by your knowledge of our culture. Wish you all the best.

  • Madeeha

    Hi Heather! Its always nice to realize that some people still make an effort to look past the stereotypes and the media hype to the find some insight into the truth. Thank you for this very endearing article. As a Pakistani I agree with all your tips and am delighted by your knowledge of our culture. Wish you all the best.

  • Glen Rooney

    Some great inside information here Heather. You sure know your stuff. When Pakistan finds its way into my travel plans i now know where to turn to for advice.

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