Where to Play, Eat, and Stay on a Weeklong Trip to Ireland, From Dublin to County Kerry

Things to do in Ireland, from Dublin to County Kerry

Brush up on Irish history at EPIC

Housed beneath the historic Custom House Quay building overlooking the River Liffey in Dublin is EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum, an eras-spanning digital museum that documents the history of the Irish diaspora. The Great Famine remains a prominent cultural and historical moment in Ireland’s collective memory, and although the tragedy occurred in the mid-1800s, the country hasn’t recovered its pre-famine population to this day, a surprising realization and a stark testament to the consequences of the catastrophic event.

EPIC’s extensive, interactive digital archive brings to life the stories of the Irish people, documenting the experiences of those who remained in Ireland and those who migrated elsewhere. The museum explores the cultural contributions of the Irish as they ventured across the world, highlighting the prolific musicians, admired athletes, influential writers, notorious criminals, and political activists who impacted the course of history within and outside of Ireland.

Utilizing the museum’s technology, visitors can curate personalized experiences focused on their interests. The content available throughout the museum is multi-layered and dense, and it requires multiple visits to fully digest. Luckily, tickets include one free return visit within 10 days of your original visit, and guided tours are available. The museum also provides genealogy services to shake out family trees and track down any long-lost Irish ancestors.

EPIC: The Chq Building, Custom House Quay, North Wall, Dublin 1, Ireland

Crisscross the cliffs in Howth

Inhabited from prehistoric times until it was established as a fishing village and trading port in the 14th century, Howth is home to well-heeled Dubliners escaping the city’s congestion and a popular destination for day-tripping tourists. The village’s narrow streets amble up the hillside lined with colorful shops, cafes, and restaurants. On the edge of town is Howth Castle, where a rhododendron garden blooms brightly from late April to June. In the marina, yachts bob patiently awaiting their next excursions, and along Howth Pier, tour boats pick up passengers for a spin around the cliffs and Ireland’s Eye, an uninhabited island that’s a sanctuary for birds and a breeding ground for a small population of puffins.

Howth’s peninsula lies within the Dublin Bay UNESCO biosphere, a 115-square-mile protected region that’s recognized for its ecological diversity and value. The bay’s eco-conscious management has allowed wildlife to flourish. It’s common to see porpoises and seals frolicking in the sea while the remains of shipwrecks are stuck fast in the seabed below the water.

Howth’s seaside cliffs are traversed by many miles of walking trails — narrow, packed-dirt lanes that cut across the hillside through blackberry brambles and under the shade of windblown pines. From the top, views stretch to the edge of the peninsula, where Baily Lighthouse still stands and the Irish Sea disappears into the horizon on its way to England.

Naturally, the conditions and seasons influence the atmosphere. At its best, the weather is clear and calm, and a breeze blows across the yellow gorse flowers while the sun glitters on the slate blue water. At its worst, visibility is low to nil from wind and rain that blasts inland from the dark, turbulent sea. In poor weather, a pint at The Summit Inn pub in town is a reliable backup plan.

Howth is an easy trip from Dublin’s city center, roughly 30 to 45 minutes by car. To streamline your visit, Howth Adventures is a tour company with enthusiastic local guides and well-curated offerings that arranges hikes to famous landmarks, wildlife habitats, and spectacular viewpoints. Hike the trail during the week if possible to avoid the weekend crowds.

The Summit Inn: 13 Thormanby Rd, Howth, Dublin 13, D13 XK50, Ireland
Howth Adventures: 7 Balglass Rd, Howth, Dublin, D13 YR12, Ireland

Lay down a track at Windmill Lane

Walking into the recording studio at Windmill Lane feels like stepping onto hallowed ground. The walls display photographic evidence of the parade of world-famous musicians — The Rolling Stones, U2, The Spice Girls, Lady Gaga — who showed up here to contribute to the zeitgeist.

Inside the recording studio, there’s a noticeable shift in the air density. This is in part due to the atmospheric calibration necessary to capture unadulterated sound, but it’s also in the energetic space, warped by those iconic artists who command a gravitational orbit so strong that it continues to pull the rest of us into it long after they’ve left the building.

When Ed Sheeran or Hozier aren’t in the studio, regular folks can get an all-access pass to see what goes on behind the scenes. During a studio tour, visitors are encouraged to ask every question under the sun about recording studios, the process, the production, and the performers. The VIP package includes a tour of the studio and a behind-the-scenes performance from the session musicians who have recorded here alongside well-known artists.

For something even more interactive, the Artist’s Pass package thrusts you into the spotlight. After choosing a song, the rehearsals begin, and the amateurs are coached by a producer before lining up in front of the microphones to record. In post-production, the track is tuned up by a sound engineer and delivered in an MP3 file for safekeeping.

Windmill Lane Recording Studio: 20 Ringsend Rd, Dublin 4, D04 CF66, Ireland

Road trip the Ring of Beara

Across the Emerald Isle from Dublin on Ireland’s west coast lies County Kerry, where many visitors come to drive around the Ring of Kerry. Those looking to diverge from Kerry’s well-worn ring road will find just as many dramatic views, attractive fishing villages, and quaint roadside stops along the Ring of Beara, an 85-mile scenic loop that can be traveled in the course of an afternoon or stretched out over days. The journey takes travelers across ridges of rocky hillsides shrouded in cloud mist and past flocks of cream-colored sheep, their wool coats slashed with blue or pink paint. Moss-covered boulders cluster on top of each other, and in Ireland, it’s not always clear if you’re looking at a pile of rocks or an ancient Neolithic structure.

The weather is never wasted in Ireland, and while clear sunny days have their appeal, floats of fog and shifting clouds play up the tone of the environment, lending a cinematic mood to the landscape. These fluctuations between dreary drizzle and peeking sun rays set the stage for an abundance of rainbows that spread across the sky or come to their end in front of your eyes.

Throughout their history, the Irish have cultivated a strong connection to the land that’s retained to this day — an oft-repeated statistic is that the population of sheep is greater than the number of people. The result is that the land and animals are well cared for, a dynamic that’s noticeable in the emphasis placed on producing high-quality products and the pride people take in the fruits of their labor. Much as you’d find mustard in Dijon or Chianti in Tuscany, venturing out into Ireland’s wilds yields a wealth of tasty local specialties. Kerry has several claims to culinary fame, from Cashel’s creamy blue cheese to Sneem’s squares of black pudding. The spring lamb is a favorite across all of Ireland for its quality and flavor, and the cows that graze on Kerry’s mineral-rich grasses infuse the nutrients of the soil into their golden butter.

Kenmare (meaning “head of the sea”) is a tiny town near the terminus of the Kenmare Bay, where winsome local shops lean into their respective specialities — handmade chocolates at Lorge Chocolatier and traditional French baked goods at Maison Gourmet, for example. Elsewhere, Tom Crean Brewery is a sustainable microbrewery honoring the famous Irish Antarctic explorer who’s also the owner’s late grandfather. On the outskirts of the triangular town center is the Kenmare Stone Circle, a Bronze Age standing stone monument with celestial orientations.

About an hour southwest of Kenmare and crossing into County Cork is Castletownbere, a lively port town that serves as a good base to explore the region. West Cork takes pride in the aesthetics of its towns, and the county has received numerous Tidy Towns awards, a community-based competition that motivates locals to spruce up their surroundings by picking up trash, painting buildings in attractive colors, preserving the traditional signage, and planting flowers along the street. One of the largest fishing fleets in the country is based there, and the whitefish and scallops on the menu are so fresh that their aromas float by on the breeze before you’ve even taken a seat at the table.

Don’t miss the roadside delight that is Molly Gallivan’s, a 200-year-old cottage and farm formerly run by Ms. Gallivan herself, an entrepreneurial character who opened an illegal pub and distilled her own whiskey to support herself and her seven children. Visitors can take tea or have a traditional meal in the barn restaurant, shop the locally made hand-knit wool products, or pay a visit to the farm to feed the sheep and meet the entire crew of animals.

Lorge Chocolatier: 22 Henry St, Kenmare, Co. Kerry, V93 E336, Ireland
Maison Gourmet: 6 Henry St, Kenmare, Co. Kerry, V93 A7KE, Ireland
Tom Crean Brewery: Killowen Rd, Kenmare, Co. Kerry, V93 Y6KX, Ireland
Kenmare Stone Circle: 52 Market St, Kenmare, Co. Kerry, Ireland
Molly Gallivan’s: Releagh, Co. Kerry, V93 HY26, Ireland

Where to eat and drink in Ireland, from Dublin to County Kerry

The Perfect Pint Tour

 

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With over 750 pubs spread out all over the city, finding a place to have a pint in Dublin isn’t a challenge. What can be daunting is sorting through which pubs locals actually patronize and which ones cater primarily to tourists. Enter the Perfect Pint Tour, a tour created by Dubliners who’ve visited over half of the pubs in their city. Unlike the average pub crawl, the Perfect Pint Tour dives into the history of the pubs you visit, the families who’ve run them for generations, and the particular features that make each one special. All of that context offers insight into how pubs factor into Ireland’s cultural life as places to gather and cultivate social bonds.

During the tour, you’ll also learn how much thought is put into Guinness, from the temperature of the glass to correctly pouring and drinking the perfect pint. Stops on the tour include the pub that prompted Anthony Bourdain to halt filming so he could post up at the bar for days on end and a buzzy neighborhood pub where you can try your hand at pouring a Guinness from the tap. Most pubs in Dublin also now serve non-alcoholic beverages and have menus featuring 0.0% beers and mocktails to ensure that everyone has a place in the pub.

The Perfect Pint Tour: Various, Dublin, Ireland

Art Afternoon Tea at The Merrion Hotel

Sipping a steaming cup of Earl Grey tea while grazing on a platter of nibbles is an English tradition and a pleasant way to spend an afternoon in Dublin. This formal yet fashionable social experience is elevated at the Merrion Hotel in Dublin, which sources menu inspiration from its art collection featuring works by Irish artists John Boyd and Norah McGuinness. The Art Afternoon Tea service is set in the drawing room, where the waning afternoon light slants into the windows, and a fireplace crackles in the background. Dainty sandwiches, colorful cakes, and fluffy scones are piled upon tiered serving trays, accompanied by bowls of thick clotted cream and bright lemon curd. The dessert menu is updated frequently to reflect imagery from the hotel’s resident artworks. Reservations are required and can be made through the hotel website.

The Merrion Hotel: Merrion St Upper, Dublin 2, Ireland

The Stables Brasserie and Bar

What once operated as the horses stables at Sheen Falls Lodge now stands as a cozy, modern brasserie and bar serving contemporary cuisine with seasonal ingredients. Sip an aperitif in the bar before dinner or relax on couches while local musicians play traditional Irish tunes. During the warmer months, dine outdoors on the patio; the rest of the year, retreat inside to the stylish brasserie. The menu features hyperlocal ingredients sourced from nearby farms, a seasonal selection that inspires the chef to create daily specialties alongside comforting favorites like wild mushroom arancini or a juicy beef burger. The restaurant is only a short five-minute drive from Kenmare village, and reservations are recommended.

The Stables Brasserie and Bar: Kenmare Old, Kenmare, Co. Kerry, V93 HR27, Ireland

Where to stay in Ireland, from Dublin to County Kerry

The Merrion Hotel

A five-star, two-Michelin-key hotel in the center of Dublin, The Merrion Hotel embodies the timeless appeals of Georgian-era luxury: classic elegance, service that caters to your needs before you even realize what your needs are, and the art of socializing.

The rooms are spacious and well-lit, with richly textured decor from the floral-print furniture to the twill accents. Plush carpets pad the floors while the pillowy king bed hosts an extravagant night of sleep. The Italian marble bathrooms are equipped with every comfort possible, like steaming hot showers and soft, thick robes. During any absence from the room, everything will be refilled, refreshed, and tidied so that when you return, the room has been made new again.

No feature is left unconsidered at The Merrion Hotel. The building itself displays artful details such as the restored rococo designs decorating the walls and ceilings, the result of meticulous plasterwork done by a master stuccadore. There’s also a museum-worthy art collection on site, and the hotel offers a self-guided tour to guarantee that no pieces in its impressive gallery will be overlooked. The swimming pool at the hotel spa is stunning, with a tone that departs from the intricate design elements of the Georgian era. A mirror of blue water floats between two rows of wide, circular columns set in creamy white stone, and along with the mural on the back wall, the elegant scene is reminiscent of a hammam.

Dining at the Merrion exhibits the same sophistication, quality, and attention to detail as the hotel itself. The Garden Room serves modern Irish cuisine in an upscale yet casual dining room overlooking the gardens and is also where guests enjoy the breakfast buffet. Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud is a two-star Michelin restaurant serving contemporary Irish cuisine that draws inspiration from French traditions.

If you’re able to tear yourself away from the dining options, jacuzzi tub, and the recesses of your downy comforter, spend free moments in the Drawing Rooms. In the mornings, guests and business folk take a coffee or peruse the newspaper, and later in the day, groups sit down to an afternoon tea service with all of the traditional trimmings. Bar 23’s lavish decor and salon setup creates occasions for socializing, with an absence of televisions and music to promote the fading art of chit-chat over a drink and a snack menu. Later, venture underground to the Cellar Bar to navigate the narrow stone hallways that lead to an assemblage of tucked-away rooms. Parties of all sizes can find the perfect nook to settle into, like intimate brick alcoves or spacious caverns where long banquettes stretch out under vaulted ceilings.

The Merrion Hotel: Merrion St Upper, Dublin 2, Ireland

Sheen Falls Lodge

A centuries-old stone bridge spans the River Sheen, the falls underneath tumbling over mossy boulders, invigorating the surrounding pines and flowers with freshly churned oxygen. The arched gray bridge is the focal point of this quintessential Irish countryside tableau, a striking image that burns itself into memory.

Set on a forested estate along the banks of Kenmare Bay and next to the falls, Sheen Falls Lodge was originally a hunting and fishing retreat until it evolved into a five-star, two-Michelin-key hotel. Designed with an emphasis on spaciousness and proximity to water, the rooms are immaculate — clean and well-appointed, with large marbled bathrooms and thoughtful design touches like locally made, one-of-a-kind ceramic pieces and hand-woven baskets. Sumptuous carpeting and downy bedding soften the space, the rich pastels reflecting the colors of the seasons. Furnishings are wooden and clean-lined, and curvaceous loveseats face windows overlooking either the falls or the bay. Both views are frame-worthy landscapes of nature and tranquility — the falls view is accompanied by a soothing, rambling water soundtrack, and the bay view rooms are serene and quiet.

While the hotel is recognized for its modern comforts and exceptional service, the property has also retained its character as a sporting retreat, hosting bucolic activities like fishing the abundant stocks on the Sheen River, riding horses along trails in the afternoon, or shooting down clay pigeons. One standout experience on offer is falconry, during which guests can feed magnificent birds of prey such as a spirited Harris hawk and a Great grey owl.

The hotel earns its name as a lodge — a handsome taxidermy deer lords over a sizzling fireplace, a small library provides for moments of reflection, and the naturally lit lounge serves as a respite to enjoy a pot of tea or glass of wine. The majority of the pieces in the hotel’s art collection have been produced by a singular local artist, her style infusing color and playful moods into abstracts of sheep or party dresses. Flourishing gardens ensconce the hotel, and farther out, a network of walking paths leads through pine forests and down to the seaweed-covered banks of Kenmare Bay.

The hotel’s on-site restaurants and bars each provide a distinct atmosphere. The Falls Restaurant serves breakfast in a sunny dining room overlooking the waterfall, and in the evening, the cozy and inviting Sheen Bar mixes up specialty cocktails while talented local musicians play a concert of crowd-favorites in the lounge.

Sheen Falls Lodge: Kenmare Old, Kenmare, Co. Kerry, V93 HR27, Ireland

How to get to and around Ireland

The direct Aer Lingus flights to Dublin departing from either New York or Boston are mercifully quick — unless you happen to be flying business class, in which case the flight ends almost too soon. Many Aer Lingus flights depart in the evenings, and the time difference combined with the duration of the haul means that if you throw on the complimentary eye shades and take advantage of the lie-flat seats in the premium cabin, you feel ready to go when you land. Of course, staying awake for a bit also has its perks, like sipping on a chilled flute of Champagne and choosing your courses from Aer Lingus’ upscale dining menu, which features a succulent marinated chicken and creamy artichoke soup. For the best of both worlds, guests can select a lighter express menu option when sleep is a priority.

If traveling to and from West Ireland, the Shannon Airport also has direct Aer Lingus flights to and from the US. The Shannon Airport is small, easy to navigate, and happens to be famous for being the birthplace of Irish coffee and duty-free shopping. The Shannon and Dublin Airports are the only two airports in Europe that offer pre-clearance prior to departure, meaning that travelers go through customs before boarding their flight, bypassing the customs line upon arrival in the US.

Once in Dublin, public transport is a sure way to get around the city. In the countryside, it’s best to rent a car to have the freedom to go wherever you like.