Travel Suriname by Boat: 3 Trips

A two-hour boat trip to Pikin Slee

Suriname River early morning

A three-hour bus ride south from Paramaribo brought us to Atjoni, where the road ends and the rainforest takes over. Dozens of colorful korjalen bobbed up and down along the waterfront of the Suriname River.

This region is inhabited by the Saamaka, or Saramakan Maroons. They’re the descendants of runaway slaves who settled along this river in villages that now number from 500 to 3,000 people.

Near the water were stacks of toilet paper, crates of beer, cans of soda, and bags of sugar, rice, and detergent. From here, all necessities are transported upriver by boat or airplane.

Both sides of the river are walled in by dense forest, typified by ceiba trees, known locally as kankantri, which rise high above all the rest. They’re considered sacred by non-Christian Maroons, and in the past a kankantri tree on the river bank could be enough of a reason to establish a village at that place.

The water’s surface is punctuated by boulders, as if the gods had played marbles in the river. Sometimes the boulders are part of sulas (rapids), where navigation demands a good deal of deftness. The farther upriver, the trickier the sulas become; we were told that during the dry season boats may have to be unloaded and hauled over the rocks.

The river functions as a highway, a source of food, bathroom, swimming pool, and laundromat for the inhabitants of the area. All along the riverfront, children play, women wash and scrub.

Campfire at Guesthouse Pasensie in Pikin Slee

After two hours of boating, we arrived at Pasensie Guesthouse in the village of Pikin Slee, where the cook Jackie welcomed us with coffee and tea. We stayed for some days after to explore the village and rainforest and visit the first museum on Maroon culture, which includes a sculpture garden and botanical and herb garden. It’s a good base from which to hike to surrounding villages like Botopasi and Foetoenakaba.

Practicalities

• For an organized tour to the Suriname River, check out travel agencies in Paramaribo, such as Blue Frog Travel.
• The river is easy to explore independently. To get to Atjoni, take a bus (minivan) from Saramaccastraat in downtown Paramaribo. The buses of Nationaal Vervoer Bedrijf run according to schedules, the others when full. Expect to pay about 70 SRD (~$21US) for the three-hour ride.
• In Atjoni, ask around for a boat that you can join. You may have to wait because no boat embarks half empty. Rates: 15-20 SRD for 10 minutes to Pamboko; 70 SRD for two hours to Pikin Slee; 250 SRD for a full day trip to Storoku or Kosino.
• The Upper Suriname River is growing more popular on traveler itineraries, and there are many villages with accommodations that vary from simple B&Bs to luxurious resorts. Some resorts only accommodate visitors who have made reservations or who come with a tour (such as Anaula Resort), while others focus on sustainable development in the region (such as Danpaati Lodge).
• To ensure a place to sleep, bring a hammock and mosquito netting (for sale on Saramaccastraat, downtown Paramaribo). It’s worth noting that there are few mosquitoes and malaria has been eradicated in much of Suriname (including along the Suriname River). Prices vary — expect to pay 30 SRD for a hammock stay, and 40-200 SRD for rooms. A common deal is $40US for an overnight stay with three meals. In some places you can use the kitchen for a fee.
• Note that the Maroons, like indigenous people elsewhere in Suriname, are highly sensitive about photography. They don’t want you to take pictures of women and children along the waterfront as you pass by in the korjaal. When visiting a village, always ask permission before taking a picture. It has become common courtesy to send your pictures to the village afterwards, or to your guide, who will pass them along.