1. Learning how to share on a San Diego beach
As a kid, no matter how spectacular my sand castles came out, there was always another 8-year old down the beach with wrecking balls for hands and nine ounces of snot hanging from his lip. He’d waddle toward my pending masterpiece and ask to help construct it. In congruence with my mother’s stern assertions to share and against my inner Frank Lloyd Wright, I’d acquiesce. Twenty years later I’d thank her for those constant assertions. She’d taught me to share the sand. As a surfer, I learned to share the waves. And as a human, I learned to share the ocean with its most amicable inhabitants.
Rewards have included: new friends, perfect surf sets, occasionally awaiting those sets within arm’s reach of a curious dolphin or seal — and knowing that the only things that are “mine” on these beaches are my board and my memories.