I Came To Iceland for the Solitude and All I Saw Were Tourists
Last winter, I set out on an otherwise unremarkable February day to visit a 15-meter-high basalt stack jutting out of the Greenland Sea. Hvítserkur is located just off the remote Skagafjörður peninsula in the north of Iceland. Loosely resembling the head of a troll (its two large “holes” lie against the water like eyes), Hvítserkur is a notable attraction in this region of Iceland, and is also particularly difficult to get to; one must drive along a potholed, dirt road that winds sharply around vertigo-inducing seacliffs for close to twenty miles in order to reach it. You’re hopeless without a four-wheel. Eventually, you come to a worn, muddy clearing (parking lot) and must walk another ten minutes through an even muddier pathway until the magnificence appears out of the oceanic abyss.