Once upon a time, Iceland was a remote, mysterious land full of volcanic activity and black-rock moonscapes. Then the stopover program happened, and now you’re more likely to find a bar full of Americans in Reykjavik than anything resembling a local. But that doesn’t mean Iceland is any less glorious to visit, you just have to know how to do it while avoiding the stopover masses.

The city is worth checking out for a few days, but the best way to see Iceland is on the road. And we’ve scoped out some of Iceland’s best road trips, from a few days to a couple of weeks. You can get dirty and check out the rugged drives along Iceland’s F-roads, or go in the winter and seek out the northern lights. Your first stop will likely be the thermal baths at the Blue Lagoon, but you’ll find plenty of other spas across the island. Read on for all the best stuff to do in Iceland, and find an adventure that’s literally all your own.