Where to Play, Eat, and Stay in Jackson Hole, Wyoming

That climb was part of a fall trip to Jackson, Wyoming, which has quickly become one of my favorite national park gateway towns. Grand Teton National Park sits a few miles north, and you can’t help but catch a glimpse of the stony peaks wherever you are in town.

Skiers flock here in winter when Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and Snow King Mountain, Wyoming’s oldest ski area, are the main attractions. But I’ve visited in summer and fall, and that’s when I’d go back. Unless you’re all-in on snow sports, block off dates for a summer or early fall visit (before early October, when the tram and the via ferrata close for the season) and read on for help narrowing down where to eat, drink, stay, and play.

Things to do in Jackson Hole

Hike Grand Teton National Park

Grand Teton National Park has more than 200 miles of trails. About 8 of those miles wind through the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve, where several trails lead to Phelps Lake. I downloaded the route for the Woodland, Phelps Lake, and Lake Creek Loop and tracked my hike on AllTrails. Over 3.2 miles, I hiked through patches of early fall color and fragrant fir trees before emerging on the shores of a lake where the Tetons lay reflected in the water. After a sip and a snack, I hiked back to the trailhead.

Hikes like this are easy to do on your own. With a Grand Teton National Park map in hand and AllTrails on your phone, you can find a hike that fits your abilities and goals, whether that’s waterfall chasing, hiking high into the hills, or wildlife watching. Just be sure to give the wildlife room to roam wherever you go: park rules require you to stay at least 100 yards from bears and wolves and 25 yards from everything else.

Raft or float the Snake River

The Snake River flows through Grand Teton National Park and the valley. While you can join Jackson Hole Whitewater for an adrenaline-filled run through rapids, this time I opted for a relaxing (and totally dry) 7-mile float trip. Our captain and oarsman (he wears both hats onboard, so tip well at the end) stood in the center of the raft, turning it this way and that, giving everyone a view of the mountains, the bald eagles watching from the tops of tall trees, and a scattering of fall color.

When you book, you’ll find choices “from thrill to chill,” as the outfitter says, including the float I did, whitewater rafting, private tours for your group, and van excursions to search for wildlife (elk, moose, grizzly and black bears, deer, eagles, and more) in and around the national park.

Jackson Hole Whitewater: 945 W Broadway Ave, Jackson, WY 83001

Try a via ferrata

I love a day on the river, but I saved my big adrenaline day for the via ferrata, an activity that’s half hiking, half climbing. Via ferrata translates to “iron way,” which gives you a hint of what to expect: a network of iron rungs, plates, and handholds bolted into the rock right beside steel-cable safety lines. Your rock-climbing harness is hooked to the safety lines the whole time, whether you’re climbing a sheer or inverted rock face, traversing a bouncy bridge, or scurrying up a steel-rope ladder that wiggles with every move you make. It’s physically and mentally challenging, from hoisting yourself over rock ledges to trusting your guide on just where to find that out-of-sight handhold or foothold. But it’s worth every drop of sweat and jolt of adrenaline.

When you book online, you’ll choose among several routes from beginner-friendly (you still need to be fit and not too unnerved by heights) to challenging routes in Corbet’s Couloir. Via ferrata season runs from mid-June to early October.

Stargaze indoors or out

Much of this part of Wyoming is recognized for its dark skies. You could catch a casual glimpse of the Milky Way if you’re looking up at the right time, or you could go to Snow King Mountain, which bills its summit observatory and planetarium as the only mountaintop facility of its kind in the United States. The Snow King Observatory & Planetarium’s roughly 26-foot full-dome planetarium is home to science-based shows that take you on a tour of the cosmos or let you fly by Mars, and the roughly 39-inch PlaneWave telescope (one of the largest public telescopes in the region) anchors its outdoor programming.

On clear nights, staff open the dome, and the big telescope and its smaller cousins give you a look into deep space and at nearer heavenly bodies (if it’s cloudy, you get an extended planetarium tour of that night’s sky instead). Programming varies by season, and the summit closes between the summer and winter seasons. When you book online, you can pair your admission with a scenic gondola ride with just an extra click or two.

Snow King Observatory & Planetarium: Top of Snow King Gondola, 100 E Snow King Ave, Jackson, WY 83001

Ski Jackson Hole and Snow King

In winter, both mountains have ample opportunities for skiers and snowboarders, split between trails, terrain parks, and a halfpipe or two. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort has more than 130 named trails and plenty of places to stay, dine, and shop in Teton Village, at the base of the resort’s ski runs. A short walk from Town Square, Snow King Mountain has 41 named runs across more than 500 acres. Both ski areas rent gear and have slopes for beginners as well as runs that satisfy the experts among us.

Whether or not you’re bringing your own gear, you’ll need lift tickets, sold online as single- and multi-day passes for Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and Snow King Mountain. Both sites also post maps, mountain conditions, and booking information for lessons and rentals.

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort: 3395 Cody Lane, Teton Village, WY 83025
Snow King Mountain: 402 E Snow King Ave, Jackson, WY 83001

Ride to the summit

You don’t have to be a skier, snowboarder, via ferrata climber, or stargazer to get to the top of these mountains. Both sell sightseeing tickets that take you from the “ground floor” at the base to the penthouse, where you get the views once reserved for birds, mountain goats, and intrepid explorers.

Snow King Mountain’s Scenic Gondola carries you nearly 1,600 feet up to a summit with views of Jackson and the Teton Range (even Yellowstone National Park when the conditions are right). At Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, ride one of three scenic gondolas to the top, where some hikers begin the daunting Teton Crest Trail (it’s nice to get a head start on a 40-mile trail) or shorter trails that lead to Teton Village. But most folks come for the view and a waffle from Corbet’s Cabin.

Where to eat and drink in Jackson Hole

Aurora Restaurant

Aurora Restaurant, at the top of Snow King’s mountain, has what must be the best view of any restaurant in town. Take in the Teton Range, Jackson, and the Snake River, then turn your attention to the menu, where my favorites include the steak tartare, chargrilled octopus, scallops with local mushrooms, and bone-in ribeye, plus some olives and focaccia to start.

Aurora Restaurant: Top of Snow King Gondola, 100 E Snow King Ave, Jackson, WY 83001

Il Villaggio Osteria

This Italian restaurant sits slopeside in Teton Village, inside Hotel Terra Jackson Hole, and serves one of my favorite pizzas in the country: the Meyer lemon pie with plenty of cheese and a little drizzle of hot honey. Tuck into a plate of house-made pasta, but good luck choosing between the campanelle (with mushrooms, black garlic, and Calabrian pepper) and the pappardelle (with beef and pork ragù).

Il Villaggio Osteria: 3335 W Village Dr, Teton Village, WY 83025

The Mangy Moose Restaurant & Saloon

The Mangy Moose gives off a rustic, townie-bar feel, but it’s welcoming to all, whether you’re there for a bite, a drink, or some live music. Whatever brings you in, look up, and you’ll see a taxidermied moose towing a sled hanging from the ceiling. After eyeballing the moose, it’s time to order. It’s hard to beat the game chili (with bison, elk, and beef prime rib) and a salad like the Western Edge Wedge or the Farm Greens and Blueberry salad. Alternatively, the burger or the smoked turkey and brie sandwich is a great choice. While you’re here, get a sloshie, Jackson’s spin on the grown-up slushie — a booze-infused icy drink you’ll find at bars across town. Flavors rotate.

The Mangy Moose Restaurant & Saloon: 3295 Village Dr, Teton Village, WY 83025

Tram Dock Bar & Kitchen

At the base of the ski runs at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Tram Dock serves drinks from its four-sided bar (you won’t wait long, even when it’s crowded) and a menu of casual bites that are a little more budget-friendly than some of the finer dining options but no less tasty. The Tram Dock Smash Burger is a favorite (be warned: the triple is a mighty big burger), as are the Cowboy Nachos and the Wild West BLT, which delivers a little kick thanks to horseradish and jalapeño mayo.

Tram Dock Bar & Kitchen: 3395 Cody Ln, Teton Village, WY 83025

Wild Pine

Located inside Gravity Haus, Wild Pine serves dishes inspired by the region and the season. I stopped in for breakfast twice (but dinner looks amazing, especially the smoked trout dip, lion’s mane mushroom steak, and the elk meatballs). The avocado toast on local sourdough made for a light but filling morning bite before I ventured off on the via ferrata, and the Gravity Bowl with grains, sweet potato, and egg made for a more substantial breakfast on my travel day. Add in great café drinks (my matcha latte and my flat white were both winners) and you’ve got an easy, affordable, tasty breakfast option close at hand.

Wild Pine: 3345 W Village Dr, Teton Village, WY 83025

Persephone Bakery

In downtown Jackson, Persephone Bakery has earned a big reputation for coffee and baked goods, and it lives up to the hype. This too-cute-in-any-season spot was a fast favorite on this trip for the patio and deck space where I could enjoy my latte and chocolate croissant and do a little people-watching. The line moves quickly, so don’t stray too far looking for a table or you might miss the barista calling your name.

Persephone Bakery: 145 E Broadway Ave, Jackson, WY 83001

Million Dollar Cowboy Bar

This legendary spot has iconic neon signage, saddles-turned-barstools, and “is this a movie set?” bar décor. Grab a saddle, snag a high-top near the pool tables or some seats near the stage, then order a cold round for your crew — the house Golden Ale is a solid choice, but the bar keeps a selection of suds from local breweries — and wait for the show to start. I’m no country-music fan, but the band I watched gave us two sets of outlaw and ‘90s classics and kept the dance floor packed with swirling, dipping, twirling, quick-stepping couples.

Million Dollar Cowboy Bar: 25 N Cache St, Jackson, WY 83001

Cream+Sugar

Artisan ice cream meets artisan cookies in a combination that’s forever close to my heart. If you love ice cream sandwiches, or even if you just like them, Cream+Sugar’s a guaranteed palate pleaser, but if you’d rather stick to the ice cream, there are scoops, milkshakes, even bags of cookies. The mint chocolate chip is the best I’ve had, but the huckleberry (you’ll see a lot of things with huckleberry in Jackson) is as pretty to look at as it is tasty.

Cream+Sugar: 20 E Broadway Ave, Jackson, WY 83001

Where to stay in Jackson Hole

Gravity Haus

With contemporary styling, cozy linens, and hot, powerful showers, Gravity Haus made for an excellent choice on my outdoor-adventure-focused visit to Jackson in the fall. Rooms range from single queen or king configurations to suites with two queen or king beds to lofts; sleeping one to four people, the boutique hotel works for solo travelers and groups alike.

Bring your swimsuit for the year-round hot tub; the sauna, available in fall and winter, gives you another way to relax when you’re off the trail or slope. Wild Pine, the hotel’s restaurant, is a great option (even if you’re not a guest), and the in-house Adventure Center can get you set up for any number of ways to explore and experience Jackson, from hiking and biking to winter sports and river floats.

Gravity Haus: 3345 W Village Dr, Teton Village, WY 83025

The Hostel

I stayed at The Hostel on a previous national-parks-focused trip and found this spot, billed as “Jackson Hole’s Affordable Hotel,” as advertised: affordable and easy, if a little bare-bones compared to the luxury stays nearby. Catering to budget-minded visitors, The Hostel provides an outdoor grill, which stays busy in summer and fall as folks fire it up and eat at tree-shaded picnic tables on the lawn. Rooms range from private accommodations to the type of bunk-style rooms you’d expect at a hostel.

The Hostel: 3315 Village Dr, Teton Village, WY 83025

Getting to and around Jackson Hole

On this trip, I flew into the Jackson Hole Airport (JAC), an easy airlift from Charlotte, North Carolina. Its flight schedules shift some with the season, but direct routes from Atlanta, Charlotte, Newark, and New York’s JFK make access to Jackson easy from the Eastern US; travelers from the Central and Western US have direct flights from Chicago, Denver, Dallas/Fort Worth, Houston, Minneapolis, Los Angeles, San Diego, San Francisco, and Portland. Upon arrival at this tiny airport, you’ll exit onto the tarmac (to dramatic views of the Tetons) and go right into the terminal for quick bag retrieval and even quicker rental-car service (Enterprise, National, Hertz, Avis, and Budget have on-site rentals; Dollar and Thrifty will shuttle you to their downtown rental locations).

On my previous trip to Jackson, I flew into Salt Lake City (SLC) and drove up, following Interstate 15 north to Idaho, then cutting east on US 89, which joined US 191 to deliver me right into Jackson (US 191 continues north to Yellowstone National Park and beyond). All told, it was about five hours from Salt Lake City to Jackson, but the drive was beautiful, and it gave me the chance to see and experience more of the landscape.

You don’t need a rental car to get around Jackson, as the START Bus provides a free in-town shuttle and paid routes to Teton Village (and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and its various hotels) and nearby towns in Wyoming and Idaho. START On-Demand, a free ride service in Jackson proper, is available as a smartphone app for iOS and Android or by calling 307-400-4438. Ride-share services are available in Jackson, but they tend to be pricey, so many visitors rely on hotel shuttles or the START options to get to and from the airport, their ski-resort hotels, and downtown. If you plan to seriously explore Grand Teton National Park or want to drive up to Yellowstone, you’ll need that rental car.