Everything about this photo screams Buenos Aires except the strip mall store front. This and all photos: Tom Gates.
I’D BEEN TIPPED to Mercado by the guy who cuts my hair, a Buenos Aires native who supplements his acting income with a bit of clipper wizardry. His accent had been tamed by speech coaches, but as soon as we started talking about food, he went full-on berserk with LL-gone-J Argentine Spanish. He was crazy gusto about this place.