I COULD NEVER be a food critic. I like food — a lot — but I’m not picky. Luckily, I wasn’t in charge in Kuala Lumpur.
My first morning in KL, an overconfident Singaporean from my hostel commandeered me for a series of street-food missions in Chinatown. We began at the western end of Jalan Hang Lekir and walked east.