Visiting Chernobyl, or at least the town deserted after the infamous nuclear disaster, became a hot itinerary for dark tourism in the wake of the hit TV show. And, yes, you can still visit Pripyat, or at least what’s left of it. But it’s far from the coolest thing so see when visiting this country between Russia and the rest of Europe.

Kiev is one of the most beautiful cities for architecture in the world, and we’ll give you the ultimate travel guide to the city. We’ll also hip you to a presidential-palace-turned-corruption-museum, the coolest local foods that don’t involve cold beet soup, and where to find the most impressive buildings in the country. Hint: There are a lot.