Sprawling across two river banks, Kiev has duality woven into its fabric. Delicate churches top the hills of the right bank, while concrete beehives clump up left of the river. Murals explode with color on bleak Soviet housing blocks. The biggest monastery in the region is a short ride away from a pagan hotspot. Nothing’s uniform about Kiev, not even its name: while Westerners keep using the Russian version, Kiev, the locals insist on its Ukrainian spelling, Kyiv. And the time to be in this twofold city is now. Kiev is shedding its old skin and emerging as a quirky European capital with techno raves in abandoned factories, a love for coffee bordering on obsession, and hipsters of a whole different breed.