After two days in Buenos Aires, you’ll have covered all of the key tourist attractions and cultural highlights, and even a few under-the-radar spots in hip local neighborhoods. For day three, though, it’s time to get just outside of the city’s formal boundaries to the Tigre Delta before heading back to the chic northern neighborhoods of Buenos Aires for a relaxed dinner of empanadas and a glass or two of malbec.
Prepare for a day out in the suburbs with a hearty breakfast at one of Maru Botana’s venues — four of which are located in Belgrano and one in Retiro. Maru Botana is a famous Argentine TV chef who is well known for her milhojas de dulce de leche — a sweet layered cake. After breakfast, grab some takeaway cakes and catch the train on the Mitre line that takes you to Tigre.
Once you arrive at the Tigre train station, it’s a short walk to the waterfront and the Puerto de Frutos, where you’ll find a market with crafts, furniture, and fresh produce. Order a fresh fruit smoothie by the port and walk to the banks of the Paraná River. You can rent kayaks here and explore the waterways or hop on a lancha colectivo — a public boat. You can also rent wake and paddle boards — which you should book in advance, especially in the summer — or go fishing.
For lunch, you can buy wine, bread, cheese, and salami from the local market and have a picnic by the water. Or for a relaxed yet more luxurious lunch, head to waterfront eateries María Luján Ristorante or Vivanco.
You might not be ready to go back to the frenzy of Buenos Aires after chilling out in Tigre, so a good option is to hop on the train and stop off in one of the surrounding towns such as San Isidro, Martínez, or Acassuso. If you go to San Isidro, visit architectural highlights, such as the San Isidro Cathedral, and wander through the brick houses toward the river to enjoy a cocktail and a snack before sunset.
When you get back to the city, you can go back to Palermo Soho or Palermo Hollywood if you enjoy the area, or you can experience Belgrano at night. Dining options concentrate in Barrio Chino, Cabildo Avenue between Juramento Avenue and José Hernández, and around Plaza Manuel Belgrano. If you’re too tired for an extravagant meal, go to 1810 Cocina Regional for superb empanadas, traditional stews, and a warming glass of malbec.