Dark tourism in Poland is hard to avoid, as it’s home to some of the bleakest sites from the atrocities of World War II. But Poland is also surprisingly colorful, from the pastel buildings of Poznan to the bright greens and blues of Tatra National Park and the colorful street art of seldom-visited Lodz.

But we’d be remiss in guiding you around Poland without telling you about the best places to go in Warsaw. Or the prettiest sights in Krakow. We’ve got comprehensive city guides to both places, as well as some other spots in the country you might not know about. Read on to discover all there is to this country that for so long was hidden behind the Nazis and the Iron Curtain, and see why it’s so much more than its somber history.